Laos

Luang Prabang

06.04.2004

Mit dem Bus bin ich durch Nordthailand in die Naehe des Goldenen Triangels gfahren, dort wo Myanmar, Thailand und Laos zusammentreffen, und sich die Hauptroute fuer Opiumschmuggel befindet oder befand.
In Chiang Khlong, am Mekong Fluss bin ich zu einer kleinen Thaiparty eingelanden worden. Ich musste Thaiwhisky trinken, gegrillten Fisch essen und sollte dann ein Lied singen!! Die Stimmung war ziemlich prima! Das Singen haben dann die Thais uebernommen, fuer unsere Ohren recht gewoehnungsbeduerftig!
Am nachsten Tag ging es dann nach zeitaufwendigen Grenzformalitaeten auf eine alte Holzfaehre mit ebensolchen Sitzbaenken. Die zweitaegige Fahrt auf dem Mekong ist sehr gemuetlich. Der Wasserstand ist jetzt in der Trockenzeit sehr niedrig, ueberall tauchen Sandbaenke auf, zwischendurch geht es dann auch ueber Stromschnellen, mit einer Bambusstange wird regelmaessig die Wassertiefe ueberprueft. .
Das einzig Stoerende sind die ueberholenden Speedboote, die die gleiche Strecke in nur 6 Stunden zuruecklegen und dabei einen Hoellenlaerm machen! Auf der Fahrt kommt man an winzigen Doerfern vorbei und kann die Bewohner bei ihrem nachmittaeglichen Baden oder beim Fischen beobachten. Wasserbueffel stehen am Ufer, manche sind hier schweinchenrosa!! Ab und zu wird angehalten und die Dorfbewohner bieten kleine Snacks an, wie z.B. am Spiess gegrillten Fisch und Bananen. Am Nachmittag sollten wir dann alle ploetzlich das Boot verlassen und hinter einer alten Frau her am Ufer entlang eine halbe Stunde laufen bzw. klettern. Keiner wusste warum, bis hinter der naechsten Biegung ein neues tuerkisfarbenes Boot auftauchte. Offenbar war der Wasserstand hier zu niedrig.
Abends wurde halt gemacht in einem kleinen Ort, der aussieht , wie im Wilden Westen. Ueber einen schmales Holzbrett mussten wir das Boot verlassen, den schweren Rucksack auf dem Ruecken, bin zum Glueck nicht reingefallen!! Dann galt es das steile felsige Ufer zu erklimmen, was richtig unangenehm war! Ein Gaestehaus zu finden ist hier nicht schwierig, allerdings sind sie alle sehr spartanisch eingerichtet, mit knallharten Matratzen. Dafuer werden einem im gleichen Zug zur Entspannung Drogen aller Art, wie z.B. Marihuana und Opium angeboten!! Das scheint hier so ueblich zu sein. Im Gespraech mit anderen Reisenden war ich doch ganz schoen erschrocken, wie viele junge Leute sofort bereit sind, Opium zu probieren! Traditionell war es hier ueblich, dass die alten Leute Opium rauchten. Die durchreisenden Backpacker, die das Opiumrauchen auch einmal ausprobieren wollten, haben die Jugendlichen Dorfbewohner animiert, es ihnen gleichzutun, mit der Folge, dass sie bald abhaengig wurden und ihre Arbeitskraft dem Dorf nicht mehr zur Verfuegung stellen koennen. Das scheint hier ein grosses Problem mit weitreichenden Folgen zu sein!
Nun bin ich aber in Luang Prabang, einem ausgesprochen angenehmen Ort am Mekong. Hier gibt es viele Gold und Silberschmiede, Seidenwebereien und auch leider Touristen!

 

Vang Vieng

09.04.2004

Vang Vieng ist ein kleiner Ort an einem malerischen Flusslauf, bizarre, senkrechte Kalksandstein Felsformationen im Hintergrund, wirklich sehr huebsch. Der Ort lebt allerdings auch rein vom Tourismus und vom Drogenverkauf. Der kleine taegliche Markt ist jedoch recht authentisch. Hier konnte ich diverse Spezialitaeten entdecken, wie z.B. kleine gebratene Voegelchen am Spiess, ebensolche Ratte, Fuchs im Mantel oder am Spiess gegrillt, Fledermaeuse und andere undefinierbare Tiere!! Meistens esse ich hier uebrigens vegetarisch!! Die Marktfrauen verkaufen ihre spaerlichen Waren am Boden auf einer Matte sitzend. Manchmal haben sie wirklich nur 3 oder 4 Tierchen anzubieten. Gemuese und Gewuerze sowie Fruechte gibt es natuerlich auf in Huelle und Fuelle. Leider werden sie an die Touris fuer mehr Geld verkauft.
Der Fluss wird hier auf einer schmalen, ellenlangen wackeligen Holzbruecke ueberquert. In der Mitte befindet sich eine kleine Bambushuette und man muss Brueckengeld zahlen. Daher waten die meisten Einheimischen durch den Fluss.
Gestern gab es hier ein Riesengewitter, gerade nachdem ich aus einer der hier zahlreich vorhandenen Hoehlen herauskletterte. Ich war bis auf die Haut nass! Nun ist es hier angenehm kuehl, nachdem es die letzten Wochen immer so um die 42 Grad waren!
Meine Busfahrt in Richtung Hauptstadt Vientane verlief auf der beruchtigten Strasse 13. Hier wurde im letzten Jahr ein Bus von Terroristen oder Banditen ueberfallen, u.a. zwei Schweitzer getoetet. Der Bus, etwas ramponiert, steht noch an Ort und Stelle und wird inzwischen, wie ich im Vorbeifahren sehen konnte , als Abstellraum von den Dorfbewohnern genutzt.
In Thailand, Myanmar, Laos und Vietnam gibt es zahlreiche Bergvoelker, die ein sehr abgeschiedenes Leben fuehren, unter sehr schlechten Bedingungen. Jedes vierte Kind stirbt, bevor es 5 Jahre alt wird. Zu diesen Bergdoerfern fuehren keine Strassen. Diese sogenannten Hilltribes stellen sehr farbenfreudige und aufwendig gestaltete Textilien und Kleidungsstuecke her. “Giraffenfrauen” nennen sich die Frauen eines bestimmten Stammes. Sie tragen zahlreiche schwere Messingringe um den Hals, deren Anzahl stetig erhoeht wird, so dass es aussieht, als haetten sie sehr lange haelse, in Wirklichkeite werrden aber ihre Schultern heruntergedrueckt. Jedenfalls muessen sie staendig in einer recht unbequemen Haltung verharren.
Ich bin jetzt jedenfalls auf dem Weg nach Sued Laos, zu den sogenannten 4000 Inseln im Mekong. Dort gibt es teilweise keinen Strom, so dass ich nicht weiss, wann ich mich wieder melden werde, spaetestens nach dem 18. April aus Vietnam.

Frohes Neues Jahr oder Sangkrong

09.04.2004

Hier in Laos, Thailand, Myanmar, Kambodia und wohl auch in Vietnam wird Mitte April das der Beginn des Neuen Jahres gefeiert. ZDieses Fest nennt sich auch Wasserfest. Einerseits ist es die heisseste Zeit im Jahr, andererseits soll das Wasser als wichtigste Element geehrt werden. Jedenfalls sieht es so aus, dass an den Strassenraendern Kinder und Erwachsenen stehen, bewaffnet mit Wasserpistolen und Eimern voller Wasser, und auf vorbeifahrende Fahrraeder, Mopeds, TukTuks oder Pickups warten. Und ehe man sich versieht hat man einen ganzen Eimer Wasser ueber den Kopf geschuettet bekommen!! Das irritiert und empoert einige Touristen doch sehr, aber dafuer werden sie nur ausgelacht und bekommen vom Naechsten eine weitere Ladung ab. Das ist hier halt so Tradition, und eigentlich auch ganz schoen erfrischend, wie ich selber schon ein paarmal feststellen musste!

 

Don Det, 4000 Islands

17.04.2004

Zu meiner letztewn Busreise zwischen Vang Vieng und Vientiane ein kleiner Nachtrag: Wie ich schon schrieb, ist hier im letxten Jahr ein Bus ueberfallen worden. Wie ich gerade gestern erfahren musste, ist einen Tag nachdem ich dort entlang fuhr auf der Strasse 13 nach einem schweren Gewitter der Bus den Abhang abgestuerzt, vermutlich gab es auch Tote!! Ein hier lebender Daene berichtete mir ausserdem, dass es auf dieser Strecke immer wieder Ueberfaelle auf Busse gibt, die aber totgewschwiegen werden. Entweder handelt es sich um Militaers, die hier sehr schlecht bezahlt werden (was aber unlogisch ist, da fast nur Einhiemische in den Bussen sitzen) oder Hmong Rebellen, die hier versteckt in den Bergen leben und damals mit den Amerikanern gemeinsam gekaempft haben und vielleicht noch nicht gemerkt haben, dass der Krieg vorbei ist!! Jedenfalls ist hier das Busfahren wirklich ziemlich gefaherlich!
Nun kommt aber trotzdem wieder eine meiner beliebten Busstories:
Am Tag vor meinem Geburtstag nahm ich den Nachtbus von der Hauptstadt nach Pakse, einer kleinen Stadt im Sueden. Offenbar war mein Sandwich nicht gut, jedenfalls musste ich zum ersten Mal in der ganzen Zeit zur Tuete greifen!! Sehr unangenehm, und erst die Bauchkraempfe! Am naechsten Morgen um 6 Uhr erreichte ich mein vorlauefiges Ziel und verlor zwei meiner Mitreisenden auf dem Weg zum naechsten Busbahnhof. Der Tuk Tukfahrer brachte mich dann auf einen grossen Marktplatz. Dort stand ein Bus mit der aufschrift eines Orte, ganz in der Naehe meines Zieles Don Det, eine kleine Insel von tausenden inmitten des Mekong. Ich setzte mich also hinein und wartete, nichts passierte. Also sucht ich erst einmal eine Toilette, niemand verstand mich. Als ich auf das entsprechende Foto in meinem Bildwoerterbuch zeigte, wendeten sich die Leute nur angewidert ab!! Wieder in den Bus, nach zwei Stunden ging es endlich los! Ich schlief sofort ein, wachte aber kurz darauf wieder auf, da wir anhielten. Ein riesiger ziemlich schmutziger und geschaeftiger Marktplatz mit vielen Pick ups, die sich hier Jumbos oder Sangthews nennen. Ich wollte natuerlich in meinem schoenen Bus bleiben. Man deutete mir an auszusteigen, um Fruehstueck (in Form von Nudelsuppe) zu mir zu nehmen. Nach 45 Minuten sollten wir wieder einsteigen. Dewr Bus bewegte sich dann ungefaehr 10 m vorwaerts und hielt wieder an. Keiner konnte mich verstehen, keiner konnte mir sagen, wann es denn nun endlich losgeht. Die Hitze war jetzt schon, um 9 Uhr ziemlich unertraeglich in einem stehenden Bus auf einem staubigen Marktplatz inmitten von Sshweinen, Huehnern und laufenden Motoren! Um das ganze abzukuerzen: nach insgesamt 6 1/2 Stunden fuhren wir endlich los! Meine Nerven waren am Ende! Inzwischen hatte ich aber den 20 jaehrigen Posai kennengelernt, der recht gut Englisch sprach, und , wie so viele andere auch auf dem Weg in sein Heimatdorf war, um dort mit der Familie das Neue Jahr zu feiern. Er besucht in der Hauptstadt die Hochschule und kann seine Familie nur einmal im Jahr besuchen. Da seine Eltern arm sind, lebt er waehrend der Schulzeit im Tempel mit den Moenchen. Das machen hier fast alle Studenten so. Nach vier Stunden erreichten wir den Mekong, eine winzige Faehre naeherte sich dem Ufer und der Bus fuhr tatsaechlich darauf. Auf der anderen Seite Riesenueberschwemmungen. Der Busassistent wollte mich dann irgendwo herauslassen, was Posei, den sie den “Sprecherenglisch” nannten, erfolgreich verhindern konnte. Endstation, ein kleiner Ort auf der Insel Don Khong. Ich wollte jedoch mit dem Boot weiter auf die kleine Insel Don Det . 50 Dollar sollte ich dafuer zahlen, denn egal wie viele Passagiere, das ganze Boot muss bezahlt werden.Also entschloss ich mich, bis zum naechsten Tag zu warten, um evtl. eine kleine Gruppe zu finden. Mein Freund Posai wollte mich schon einladen mit ihm zu kommen, aber sein Mut verliess ihn, da “die Sicherheit” nicht so gegeben sei, und sie haetten auch keine richtigen Toiletten! Also blieb ich in dem kleinen Ort mit nur 2 Gaestehauesern, einziger “Falang”! Abends stellte sich dann noch heraus, dass durch ein Unwetter die Stromzufuhr unterbrochen war. Nun verbrachte ich den Abend in diesem stockdunklen Ort, auf der Suche nach etwas Essbarem, was nicht einfach war. Das Leben ging fuer die Dorfbewohner weiter wie immer, die Kinder spielten im Stockdunklen, ein Pick up wurde abgeladen, man wusch und badete sich im Fluss……..Mein Zimmer war unertraeglich heiss, so erwachte ich am naechsten Morgen schon frueh, es war mein Geburtstag und Posai wartete schon auf mich! Er war zureuckgekommen und hatte ein Boot seines Freundes organisiert!! Tolle Ueberraschung! Die Fahrt war dann ueberaus abenteuerlich! Zunaechst besuchten wir naemlich seine Familie auf einer winzigen Insel mit ca. 10 Familien. Die Kinder hatten noch nie einen Auslaender gesehen uind ein kleiner Junge rannte schreiend davon, als er mich sah. Fuer mich war es jedenfalls unglaublich schoen diese Insel zu besuchen und die Familien bei ihren taeglichen arbeiten , wie Tabakschneiden und rollen und der Verarbeitung von kapok zu Matratzen zu erleben. Alle waren unglaublich freeundlich. Die Bootsfahrt werde ich nie vergessen, da wir immer wieder steckenblieben oder Stromschnellen zu ueberwinden hatten, an Wasserbueffeln vorbeikamen, die friedlich im Fluss standen und frassen! Nach 2 stuendiger Bootsfahrt erreichten wir dann Don Det, wo ich die “Jungs” erstmal auf ein Geburtstagsbier einlud. Das war mein Geburtstag in diesem Jahr! Mal was anderes!
Nun bin ich auf dem Weg nach Vietnam und hoffe, von dort aus Fotos schicken zu koennen. Die Feiertage waren grandios. Die sonst so ruhigen Laoten feierten wie verrueckt!! mit ohrenbetaeubender sehr fremder Musik, viel Bier und Tanz und immer wurden die Auslaender in alles miteinbezogen!

 

Letzte Busfahrt in Laos, Vietnam

20.04.2004

So, nun kommen wir wieder zu meinem Lieblingsthema, Busfahren. Nach anstrengenden 7 Stunden in ueberfuellten Bussen, ich musste im Mittelgang auf einem winzigen Plastikstuehlchen sitzen, erreichte ich Savanakhet, eine etwas groessere Stadt in Laos. Die Architektur hier erstaunt mich doch etwas, man fuehlt sich nach Suedfrankreich versetzt, kleine Plaetze rund um eine Kirche, Haueser im Kolonialstil. Am Mekong River gibt es zahlreiche kleine Staende mit Essbarem, die Auswahl beschraenkt sich jedoch auf hoellenscharfen Papayasalat , undefinierbare Fleischspiesschen und gekochte Eier. Da ich hungrig war, entschied ich mich fuer den Salat und ein Ei. Welch Ueberrachung, als ich das Ei oeffnete und mir eine graue Fluessigkeit ueber die Finger lief !? Fassungslos starrte ich auf das fast fertigentwickelte Kueken, mit Federn….. Jedenfalls hab ich es nicht probiert!! Um 10 Uhr abends sollte dann mein Nachtbus nach Vietnam starten. Ein junger laotischer Student brachte mich auf dem Moped zum Busbahnhof, wo eine aufgeregte Stimmung herrschte!!! Polizei Krankenwagen, viele Leute : vor einer knappen Stunde war hier eine bombe explodiert!! Zum Glueck gab es nur Leichtverletzte und viel zersplittertes Glas der Vitrinen eines Restaurants. Dieses etwas verwuestete Restaurant wollte ich denn gerade fotografieren, gesagt, getan, aber mein Blitz loeste ebenfalls auf und schon sah ich mich verfolgt von zwei Polizisten!! Sie ergriffen meinen Arm und zerrten mich in das Busbuero, aufregend gestikulierend. Abstreiten half auch nicht, dank Digitaltechnik konnte ich das Foto vor ihren Augen loeschen, aber sie wollten alle Fotos {ungefaehr 1oo!!) auf meiner Kamera ansehen!! Ich war jedenfalls froh, dass sie offenbar mit Digitaltechnik etwas vertraut waren und mir nicht die Kamera wegnahmen.
Wenig spaeter konnte ich mit zwei Kanadiern den Bus besteigen. Welche Ueberraschung, der schlechteste Bus, den ich seit Guatemala gesehen hatte. Die Sitzbaenke waren ueberhaupt nicht zu verstellen, die Fuesse baumelten in der Luft, die hintere haelfte des Busses war bestueckt mit Ersatzteilen und Reifen. Bald sollten wir merken, warum. Ein Team von 4 Personen war fuer den Bus verantwortlich. Obwohl diese beruechtigte Strasse inzwischen gepfastert ist und recht gut aussieht, wurde der Bus staendig von heftigen Schlaegen erschuettert, so dass ich dachte, irgendwann wird er durchbrechen, oder mein Rueckrat wird brechen oder , oder. nach ca. 2 Stunden gab es einen Wahnsinnsknall und zwei Reifen waren geplatzt. Das “Team” sprang aus ddem Bus und wechselte recht flott im Stockdunklen die Reifen. Weiter gings bis zur Grenze, die wir um 3 Uhr nachts erreichten. Um 7 Uhr oeffnete der Grenzuebergang und zweieinhalbstuendige Formalitaeten begannen! Unglaublich, was auf der Seite von Vietnam zu erledigen war. Diverse Formulare auszufuellen, das Gepaeck durchleutet und identifiziert, ein Drogen Cockerspaniel ueber die Taschen geschickt, strenge Blicke, Aufforderungen nicht auf der Bruestung zu sitzen, den Beamten nicht zu nahe zu kommen und mindestens fuenfmal den Pass vorzeigen!! Ich hatte nur noch das Beduerfnis ein Flugzeug zu besteigen und nach hause zu fliegen!!
Ist schnell wieder vergangen das Beduerfnis. Vietnam ist sehr entwickelt und absolut angenehm. Nach dieser Busfahrt habe ich mir ein richtiges Luxushotel mit Swimmingpool und TV geleistet! 10 Dollar die Nacht.
Hier in Hoi An gibt es zahlreiche Schneiderinnen, die einem innerhalb von einem Tag mehrere Kleidungsstuecke aus kostbaren Stoffen naehen, Was auch immer man haben moechte. Ebenso kann man aus zahlreichen Katalogen Schuhe und Stiefel aussuchen und sie sich anfertigen lassen. Es ist schier unglaublich. Morgen schicke ich ein Paket nach Hause!!

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