Honduras

Copan

06.09.2003

So, nun bin ich in Copan /Honduras. Ein Bilderbuchdorf mit Kopfsteinpflaster, kleinen Kolonialhaeuschen, Staenden fuer Touristen usw. Es klappert schoen, wie in manchen Western aus Mexiko, wenn die Honduraner auf mit ihren weissen Panama-Hueten auf ihren kleinen Pferden ueber das Kopfsteinpflaster traben. Die Menschen hier sind anders als in Guatemala. Sie sind zurueckhaltender, aber trotzdem freundlich und hilfsbereit. Auf meiner 5 woechigen Reise habe ich alle Orte besucht, vor denen das Auswaertige Amt oder meine Reisefuehrer ausdruecklich gewarnt hatten, aber ich habe nur gute Erfahrungen gemacht und habe mich nur einmal unwohl gefuehlt, weil mich alle Leute so angestarrt haben.
Habe ich schon geschrieben, dass in Guatemala alle Kinder (wenn sie nicht gerade der kleinen Oberschicht angehoeren) arbeiten, um das Familieneinkommen aufzubessern. Schon die 6-7 jaehrigen laufen durch die Busse mit Koerben auf dem Kopf, in denen sich kalte Getraenke, Tortillas oder andere Dinge befinden.
Zum Thema Machismo: Im bus steht kein junger mann auf, wenn eine aeltere Frau keinen Sitzplatz hat. Nur die Kinder werden vom Ayudante dazu aufgefordert. Auf meiner letzten Busfahrt im Minibus (Horror!) mussten drei kleine alte Muetterchen gebueckt stehen, zwei Jugendliche guckten mit ihrem Hinterteil aus der Tuer, die nicht mehr zuging, der Ayudante hing ganz draussen, waehrend der Busfahrer uns zeigen wollte, wie sehr man den Wagen beschleunigen und gleich darauf wieder abbremsen kann, da ein potentieller Fahrgast auf der Strasse steht. Wir waren ja auch erst 2o Personen im Toyota-Minibus. Dieses Mal wollte ich aussteigen, aber da war ich zum glueck schon am Ziel.
Morgen geht es an die Kueste, in eine groessere Stadt. Von dort aus moechte ich ein paar Garifuna-Doerfer erkunden.
Der Hotelbesitzer des Iguana azul, wo ich zur Zeit wohne, ist uebrigens ein ganz bekannter Poet und Schriftsteller. Ich finde ihn ausgesprochen unsympatisch. Er kommt nicht aus Honduras. Aber sein Hostal ist sehr nett. Nach 5 Wochen hab ich zum ersten Mal heiss geduscht! Aber das vermisst man hier am wenigsten. Das “Sonnenanbeten” gewoehnt man sich hier sehr schnell ab. Man laeuft nur im Schatten, und zwar langsam.

 

Das Essen – Plata Tipica

06.09.2003 

Interessant ist auch das Essengehen. Langsam kann ich die Plata Tipica mit Bohnen, Ruehrei, gebratener Banane, Saurer Sahne nicht mehr sehen. Hier habe ich etwas Neues entdeckt: Enpanadas. Das sind gefuellte Tortillas, und zwar mit pueriertem Haehnchen oder Kaese oder Bohnen oder oder. Dazu gibt es geraspeltes Kraut und scharf eingelegtes Gemuese. Zwei Stueck kosten 8 Lempira, das sind weniger als 50 Cent. Sie sind zu haben in den kleinen Comedores, die alssehen wie Huetten, aber das Essen ist Homemade und gut. Gestern hab ich dann im Touristenrestaurant einen trockenen Hamburger gegessen fuer 65 Lempira, oder Tortillachips mit einem kleinen Klecks Guacamole fuer 40 Lempira.

 

Taucherparadies Utila, Bay Islands

09.09.2003

Leider tauche ich nicht, das macht mich hier zum Aussenseiter. Die Bay Islands sind nach Aussage eines alten Seemannes hier genauso wie die Fiji Islands. Einziges Verkehrshindernis auf der Insel stellen die unzaehligen Krebse dar, die hier im Seitwaertsschritt die Strasse kreuzen, so wie in der einen Autowerbung! Sie leben in Erdloechern in den Gaerten, irgendwie wie Maeuse! Vorgelagert gibt es hier Keys, die traumhaft schoen sind und an Robinson erinnern. Auf manchen steht nur ein Haus, rundherum ein wenig Strand und Palmen, tuerkisfarbenes Wasser. Gestern war ich auf einer unbewohnten Insel. Was einem den Spass verdirbt, sind die unzaehligen Sandfliegen, die ganz mies stechen. Ich werde immer juenger, denn ich befinde mich in staendiger Gesellschaft von 20 /30 jaehrigen. Auch mal ganz nett, aber nicht immer. Heute bin ich mit einem Mountainbike unterwegs, kurz vor dem Kollaps, weil es so heiss ist!

 

Karibikkueste, Nordhonduras

13.09.2003

Habe die Insel verlassen und befinde mich in Nordhonduras an der Karibikkueste. Saison ist zu ende und hier gibt es sowieso kaum Touristen. Mein derzeitiger Reisepartner ist ein junger (durchaus sehr attraktiver!) Inder, den ich auf Utila kennengelernt habe. Meine weiteren Plaene gehen in Richtung Moskitia, wo dann doch wohl sehr abenteuerlich werden kann. Das Einholen von Auskuenften gestaltet sich manchmal schwierig. Erst sollte es einen Flug dorthin geben, dann nur ein Schiff, inzwischen heisst es, dass es nur einen Pick-up gibt.
Heute morgen war ich um 7 Uhr allein am blitzsauberen Strand und natuerlich im Wasser, welches ausnahmsweise fast erfrischend kuehl erschien. Einzig ein Iguana (ca. 30 cm lang), auf einem Baumstamm sitzend, leistete mir Gesellschaft.

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