Auf dem Weg nach Nicaragua
17.09.2003
So, jetzt bin ich auf dem Weg nach Nicaragua. In der “Moskitia” waer ich die einzige Touristin gewesen. Das geht mir dann doch zu weit. Gestern habe ich in einem Naturbecken unterhalb eines wunderschoenen Wasserfalls gebadet. Endlich mal erfrischend kuehles Wasser! Bald gibt es wieder mehr zu berichten. Heute sass ich 12 Stunden im Bus. Muss jetzt erstmal etwas essen! Liebe Gruesse an die Pestalozzischule Brake und die Klasse 10 besonders! und Jekatarina und Zeynab!
Nachtrag zu Honduras
18.09.2003
Zu Honduras fallen mir noch einige Stichwoerter ein: gruen (ueberall), Salva Vida (Bier), Maenner mit Schnurrbaerten, weissen Panamahueten und Macheten, wenig Muell auf den Strassen. Offenbar stehen bei den Busfahrern zwei Personen konkurrenzlos an der Spitze, naemlich Jesus Christus und Winnie Puh der Baer. Diese beiden findet man in Form von grellbunten Stickern in vielen Variationen in jedem Bus! Dazu toenen aus den Lautsprechern manchmal heftige Predigten.
Honduras habe ich nun verlassen und befinde mich in Nicaragua. Hier gefaellt es mir glaube ich besser. Die Menschen hier sind sehr freundlich und zurueckhaltend. Die Landschaft ist auch sehr schoen, Berge und Vulkane, riesige Gruenflaechen, duftende Kraeuterwiesen. Ueberall Pferde- und Ochsenfuhrwerke. Es gibt hier 9 aktive Vulkane! Ausserdem den groessten See in ganz Mittelamerika.
Ich bin nun in Leon, einer etwas groesseren Stadt im Kolonialstil. Hier ist das ganze Leben noch sehr urspruenglich und vom Tourismus kaum beruehrt. Die Haeuser sind nur teilweise renoviert und haben einen besonderen Charme. Ich habe mir ein kleines supergemuetliches Hotel mit kleinem Innenhofgarten und vielen Antiquitaeten und Schaukelstuehlen gegoennt. Es kostet 10 Dollar die Nacht, was fuer die Verhaeltnisse hier schon recht teuer ist.
Gerade war ich auf dem Markt und wollte meinen Schuh reparieren lassen. Es gibt hier sehr viele Schumacher, die mit ihren Maschinen auf dem Markt sitzen. Sobald sie mich sahen, begannen sie um meine Gunst zu kaempfen. Ein ca. 16 jaehriger Jugendlicher hat mir dann den Schuh hervorragend und blitzschnell repariert (mit der Hand genaeht). Das kostete 2 Cordoba und entspricht 15 Cent. Als ich ihm 3 gab, hat er mich nur verstaendnislos angesehen. Bei einem anderen Stand wollte ich ein wenig Kaese kaufen, zum Probieren. Die Marktfrau fuellte mir eine halbe Handvoll in eine Tuete und wollte nichts dafuer haben.
Dann habe ich mir bei einem anderen Stand mein Mittagessen gekauft. Haehnchen und Kartoffeln in einem Teig fritiert, mit etwas Salat, serviert in einem Bananenblatt fuer ca. 20 Cent!
Hier gibt es viel zu sehen und ich moechte ein paar Tage bleiben. Vielleicht schaue ich mir mal die Schule an. Sie suchen hier dringend jemanden fuer den Englischunterricht, auch fuer nur kurze Zeit.
Hier im Ort traf ich “alte Bekannte” wieder, zwei Kanadier, die ich in Honduras kennenlernte.
Leon
21.09.2003
Zuerst einmal ganz liebe Gruesse an alle die mir hier oder an meine Emailadresse schreiben. Ich freue mich jedesmal riesig, auch wenn ich nicht immer antworten kann. Es ist hier naemlich nicht immer so einfach. Ich habe schon des oefteren lange Mails geschrieben, bis dann das Internet abstuerzte und mein ganzer Text weg war.
Hier in der zweitgroessten Stadt des Landes war gestern komplett das Internet nicht zu benutzen!
Vorgestern war ich mit “einer alten Freundin” aus Holland, die ich hier wiedergetroffen habe und einem Argentinier am ca. 20 km entfernten Strand. kaum zu glauben, aber wir waren dort allein! Spaeter tauchten ein paar Jugendliche aus dem Dorf auf. Der Pazifik ist hier so wild, dass man nicht darin schwimmen kann. Ich stand 3 m von der Wasserkante entfernt auf dem Land und wurde von einer Welle erwischt, die mich umgeworfen hat und mein ganzes Knie vom Sand aufgescheuert war.
Leon erinnert mich ein wenig an Kuba. Die Haueser im Kolonialstil sind groesstenteils noch unrenoviert. Die Leute sitzen hier abends alle bei geoeffneten Tueren auf ihren Schaukelstuehlen und plaudern mit Nachbarn und Freunden. Die Geschaefte haben grosse Tueren zur Strasse hin. Abends wird dann, sofern vorhanden, das Auto einfach in den Geschaeftsraum hineingefahren.
Leider hat es mich total erwischt. Seit eineinhalb Tagen umkreise ich die Toilette, aber in sehr kleinen Kreisen. Habe das Gefuehl Fieber zu haben und konnte deswegen heute nicht weiterreisen. Zum Glueck habe ich dieses gemuetliche Hotel. So, jetzt muss ich meine ganze Kraft zusammennehmen und mich durch die gluehendheisse Sonne zum Hotel zurueckschleppen!
Taxifahrt nach Granada
23.09.2003
Noch etwas wackelig auf den Beinen ist es mir gestern dann doch gelungen, mein Gepaeck zu schultern und mich zum Bus zu bewegen. die Fahrt ging nach Managua. von Freunden hatte ich genaue Instruktionen, wie ich dort umzusteigen haette. auf dem Zentralmarkt angekommen, wurde ich wie immer von Taxifahrern umringt. Ich sagte einem klar und deutlich mein ziel: UCA, terminal de expreso a Granada. Wir verhandeln einen Preis, erst 20 Cordoba, dann 15. er faehrt los und fragt mich, ob ich nicht mit dem Taxi nach Granada fahren moechte fuer 200 C, Ich lehne ab und begruende, das sei viel zu teuer, der Expresso koste nur 15 C. Er fahert weiter, die Fahrt erscheint mir bald zu lang, ich frage dreimal nach, ob es noch weit bis zur UCA sei, er antwortet nur, dass ich warten soll. Ich frage wiederum: Wohin fahren wir? Er antwortet: Wohin Sie mir gesagt haben. Schliesslich frage ich noch einmal, denn wir sind inzwischen im Gruenen und das kann nicht mehr die Hauptstadt sein! Nun sag ich ihm laut und deutlich,wohin ich will, und dass ich auf gar keinen Fall mit dem Taxi nach Granada fahren will. Er haelt ploetzlich an und beginnt wild mit mir zu diskutieren. Ich vestehe nur die Haelfte und wiederhole stur meinen Fahrwunsch. Wir sind naemlich tatsaechlich auf dem Weg nach Granada und er moechte nun sein Geld haben. Hin und Her. Daraufhin will er zur Polizei fahren, was ich nur begruessen kann, bis mir einfaellt, was ich ueber die Polizei in Nicaragua gelesen habe und ich bekomme zum ersten Mal Angst.
Auf einer kleinen Polizeistation hoeren sich 5 Polizisten geduldig unsere Versionen an und man schlaegt mir vor 30 C. zu zahlen, wozu ich dann widerwillig bereit bin. Nun will aber der Taxifahrer das Geld nicht nehmen . Ich versuche mein Gepaeck aus dem Kofferraum zu holen, aber er ist verschlossen! Ich fordere den Taxifahrer auf, mein Gepaeck herauszugeben, was er aber ablehnt, er fordert 80 C. wir werden von achselzuckenden Polizisten zur Hauptpolizeistation geschickt. Dort beginnt die Diskussion von Neuem . Icvh habe das Gefuehl, dass sie mir recht geben, aber der T. gibt nicht nach und rueckt mein Gepaeck nicht heraus. Nun werden wir zur Deutschen Botschaft geschickt! Dort treffe ich abbwechselnd auf drei verschiedene Botschaftsangehoerige. Die ersten beiden sind empoert und reden auf den T. ein. Mir bestaetigen sie, wie haeufig hier die T. luegen usw.. Sie rufen einen Polizisten von der anderen Strassenseite, der dafuer sorgen soll, dass ich endlich mein Gepaeck bekomme. Er ist schwer bewaffnet, und ich bin guter Dinge! Sie diskutieren endlos, der T. will nicht nachgeben. Inzwischen fordert er schon 120 C. fuer die verschwendete Zeit und die Herumfahrerei!
Ich platze fast vor Wut! Die Diplomaten sind “erschoepft” und lassen sich abloesen. Der naechste fuehlt sich aber gar nicht direkt zustaendig und meint, wir sollen zur Polizei fahren. Der Taxifahrer will mich inzwischen anzeigen! Ich weigere mich das Gelaende zu verlassen oder zu dem Mann ins Taxi zu steigen. Ohne Dolmetscher gehe ich nicht mehr zur Polizei. Nach langem Zoegern ist der Mann bereit mich zu begleiten. Bevor es dazu kommt beginnt der T. erneut zu verhandeln…………es endet damit, dass ich ihm einen Teil seiner Forderung zahle, der Botschaftsangehoerige den Rest, weil er keine Lust hat mit zur Polizei zu fahren!
Ich bin wuetend, empoert, frustriert und ich weiss nicht was noch alles! Drei Stunden hat der Spass gedauert. Ja, meine erste schlechte Erfahrung!
Granada
29.09.2003
Granada ist eine huebsche kleine Stadt im Kolonialstil, die schon ein bisschen Tourismus aufweisen kann. Verlaesst man das Zentrum, findet man sich inmitten von Pferdefuhrwerken und kleinen aermlichen Huetten wieder. In Nicaragua betteln weitaus mehr Leute als in Guatemala und Honduras. Rein aeusserlich veraendern sich die Leute auch, je mehr man in richtung Osten, d.h. Costa Rica faehrt. Die Haare werden heller und lockiger, und bei den Frauen wesentlich kuerzer. Die Maenner werden komischerweise immer dicker! Jedenfalls diejenigen, die Geld verdienen.
Nun war ich fast zwei Wochen unterwegs mit einem netten Paar aus England, in meinem Alter. Zuletzt waren wir auf der Isla de Ometepe, im riesigen Lago de Nicaragua, auch Cocibolca genannt, nach einem mysterioesen Seeungeheuer. Die Insel besteht aus zwei beeindruckenden Vulkan, die ich dieses Mal nicht besteigen wollte!Stattdessen habe ich eine Wanderung auf halber Hoehe des Vulkanes unternommen und mir Petroglyphe angesehen. Das sind alte vulkanische Steine, in die vor tausenden von Jahren Bilder und Zeichen und Symbole gepraegt wurden. Keiner weiss bisher wie das moglich war. Bei dieser Wanderung konnten wir eine ganze Affenfamilie beobachten. Ploetzlich liess sich dann auch noch ein grosser Leguan aus dem Baum fallen und raste uns fast ueber die Fuesse! Im See gebit es uebrigens Haie. In grauer Vorzeit war es naemlich kein See, sondern eine Bucht, die sich durch Erdbeben und Verschiebungen der Erdschichten zu einem Binnensee entwickelt hat. Langsam hat sich dann das Salzwasser zu Suesswasser verwandelt und die Haie haben sich darauf eingestellt.
Diese Insel ist eine der wenigen Touristenattraktionen in Nicaragua. Trotzdem hat sich hier in den letzten Jahren kaum etwas veraendert, d.h. man kann wirklich von Oekotourismus sprechen. Die Strassen sind in einem solchen Zustand, dass man manchmal das Gefuehl hat, durch ein ausgetrocknetes Flussbett zu fahren! Die Leute, die hier leben sind ausgesprochen freundlich. Sie leben von der Landwirtschaft. Es werden hier Kaffee, Reis, Mais , Kochbananen angebaut. Die meisten Tiere laufen frei auf der Strasse herum, d.h. Schafe, Rinder, Pferde, Truthaehne und Schweine, manchmal kleine Rehe. Ohne ein Pferd kommt man hier nicht weit!
Nun bin ich aber schon wieder an der Pazifikkueste und werde mir heute Nacht Schildkroeten bei der Eiablage ansehen.
Morgen geht es dann weiter nach Costa Rica.
Freue mich riesig ueber jede Mail oder jeden Gruss!
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Agradeço antecipadamente
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