Kuba

San Jose, Meiko City, Havanna

29.10.2003

 

Drei anstrengende Tage in drei Grossstaedten liegen hinter mir. Ueberall war ich auf der Suche nach einem vernuenftigen Reisefuehrer, ohne Erfolg!
Mexiko City hat mich fasziniert, so dass ich auf meiner Weiterreise vielleicht doch ein paar Tage dort bleiben werde. Ueberall fahren gruen/weisse VW Kaefer als Taxis herum. Sie sind nicht etwa alt, sondern erst 2 bis 3 Jahre alt und werden in Mexiko produziert.
Havanna hat sich in den letzten zwei Jahren ganz schoen veraendert. Die Leute belaestigen einen auf Schritt und Tritt. Alle wollen deine Dolares haben. Ein schlechter Mojito kostet hier schon drei Dollar! Inzwischen ist es in Cuba aber sehr viel einfacher geworden, eine Privatunterkunft zu bekommen. Schon am Flughafen werden sie angeboten. Ich habe direkt hinter dem Capitol bei einer alten Dame gewohnt, in einer sehr schoenen alten Wohnung mit Antiquitaeten. Nachdem ein sehr nette Oesterreicherin mir ihren Reisfuehrer ueberliess, konnte ich mich endlich auf die Weiterreise begeben. Mit dem Bus nach Trinidad, wo ich wiederum in dem schoensten Haus der Stadt gewohnt habe, mit einer 6o qm grossen Dachterrasse, einem Wohnzimmer, einem eigenen Patio und einem riesigen Schlafzimmer mit verschnoerkeltem Bett. Leider ist hier das Internet unverschaemt teuer und dazu noch langsam. Zur Zeit geht es mir hier wirklich sehr sehr gut und ich geniesse meine Reise in vollen Zuegen. Mehr kann ich dazu erstmal nicht sagen!
Liebe Gruesse an alle, schreibt mir mal wieder.


Santiago de
Kuba

03.11.2003

Leider kann ich im Moment nichts Spannendes berichten. Ich bin hier nun in Santiago, die Stadt der Musik und des Salsa, aber ich habe noch nicht viel getanzt. Gruppenunterricht gibt es hier zur Zeit auch nicht. Man muss Einzelstunden nehmen. Mein neues Quartier ist wieder sehr zentral, direkt bei der Casa de Trova, wo taeglich bekannte Gruppen Musik machen. Gestern habe ich mein Quartier gewechselt. Ich hatte ein kleines Zimmerchen, total abgeriegelt und mit Klimaanlage versehen. Dort konnte ich ueberhaupt nicht atmen und mich aufhalten. Leider war die aeltere Dame sehr beleidigt!
Es ist hier vieles sehr widerspruechlich. Als Tourist muss man ueberall viel bezahlen, die Kubaner bekommen jedoch nichts davon zu sehen. Sobald sie in der Tourismusbranche arbeiten, muessen sie sehr hohe Abgaben bezahlen. Auch die Musiker werden vom Staat bezahlt, 15 Dollar im Monat. Moechte ein Kubaner innerhalb von Kuba reisen, muss er das erst einmal schriftlich beantragen und diese Erlaubnis staendig bei sich tragen. Der Alltag ist hier sehr beschwerlich fuer viele! Ich hoffe in Oldenburg ist es nicht allzu kalt, hier gewittert es gerade, aber das ist der erste Regen, den ich in Kuba bis heute erlebt habe.

 

Warten

06.11.2003

Gerade habe ich mich sehr gefreut ueber die Gruesse meiner Klasse in Brake. Nun werde ich mal ein paar Fragen meiner Schueler beantworten. Also, ich liege eigentlich nie in der Sonne. Morgens mache ich mich auf die Suche nach einem belegten Broetchen zum Fruehstueck, was nicht immer zu finden ist. In Kuba verbringt man viel Zeit mit dem Warten. Man wartet vor dem Internetcafe, manchmal eine Stunde oder mehr, man wartet auf den Bus, der vielleicht gar nicht kommt, oder brechend voll ist. gestern haben sich zwei Frauen beim Einsteigen in den Bus (es regnete aus Eimern) fast gepruegelt. Der Bus war uebrigens ein LKW und wir wurden alle sehr nass. Dann wartet man vor der Bank und ueberall. Man muss immer fragen, wer denn der letzte in der Schlange ist, sonst bekommt man Aerger.

Gestern habe ich einen sehr schoenen Ausflug unternommen, mit einem Motorradtaxi. Bei der Hitze ist das sehr angenehm, aber fuer Touristen nicht erlaubt. Mit einer kleinen Faehre ging es dann auf eine winzige Insel, Cayo Granma. In 15 Minuten kann man die Insel umrunden. Ueberall stehen sehr huebsche Holzhaeuser auf Stelzen imn Wasser, die leider in einem sehr schlechten Zustand sind. Ein Lehrer lud mich ein, die Grundschule zu besichtigen. Ueber meine Spende von 2 Dollar hat er sich riesig gefreut und mich gebeten, ihm ein Foto seiner Schule zu schicken. Einen Fotoapparat besitzt hier so gut wie niemand.

Es gibt kaum vernuenftige Kleidung zu kaufen, ausser fuer Dollar. Ein Krankenpfleger verdient 9 Dollar im Monat. Ein Paar vernuenftige Schuhe kosten 24 Dollar. Die Leute freuen sich wahnsinnig ueber kleine Geschenke oder eine Einladung zu einer Coca Cola bzw. in die Disco. Ohne Begleitung werden die Cubaner in manche Diskotheken gar nicht hereingelassen! Zum Thema Essen gibt es folgendes zu berichten: Ich hatte gehofft, aufgrund des schlechten Essens hier in Cuba ein wenig abzunehmen, aber das Gegenteil ist der Fall. Ich habe hier schon mehrmals eine superleckere und frische Languste gegessen, frischen Fisch ebenfalls. Allerdings kann man besser privat bei jemandem zuhause essen, als im Restaurant. Auf der Insel gab es ein Restaurant, in dem Touristen fuer 15 bis 25 Dollar Fisch essen koennen. In dem einzigen kubanischen Reataurant habe ich fuer drei Portionen frischen Fisch weniger als 3 Dollar (75 kubanische Pesos) bezahlt. Natuerlich muss man immer jemanden einladen, sonst findet man diese Orte nicht so einfach. Aber, so ist man auch niemals allein und erfaehrt eine Menge ueber Land und Leute. Krank war ich hier noch nicht, obwohl ich das Leitungswasser trinke und Essen an Strassenstaenden kaufe. Es ist zur Zeit sehr heiss hier , aber es gibt keine Muecken, was mich wundert. Morgen fahre ich weiter nach Baracoa, einem kleinen Ort an der Ostkueste.

 

Baracoa

25.11.2003

Nachdem ich Santiago verlassen hatte, fuhr ich nach Baracoa, ganz im Osten von Kuba. Baracoa ist ein kleiner sehr authentischer Ort. Es gibt einen Malecon, wie in Havana, einen schmutzigen schwarzen Strand und eine Casa de la Trova mit Live Musik. 20 Km entfernt gibt es einen sehr schoenen Strand. Der Weg nach Baracoa fuehrt durch eine traumhaft schoene, wilde Landschaft. Es geht durch die Berge, die dicht bewachsen sind mit Palmen und diversen anderen tropischen Gewaechsen. Man faehrt durch kleine Doerfer mit strohgedeckten Huetten. Auf der Strasse, der einzigen die dorthin fuehrt, begegnet man fast keinem anderen Fahrzeug. Fussgaenger, Radfahrer, Tiere, manchmal ein Moped.
Von Baracoa aus habe ich zwei Ausfluege mit dem Motorrad in die naehere Umgebung unternommen. Fast haette ich eine ¨Sonderschule¨besucht, leider waren die Schueler an diesem Tag nicht da. Aber das Dorfleben konnte ich kennenlernen. Es erscheint irgendwie noch sehr intakt.
Der andere ausflug ging in den Osten, bis zu einer Flussmuendung, eingerahmt von riesigen Felsen. Der Ort nennt sich Yamourri, dort sprangen die Indios vom Felsen , um sich das Leben zu nehmen, bevor die Spanier sie umbringen konnten. Sie riefen Yamourri, was soviel heisst wie ich sterbe schon.
Der Ort ist sehr idyllisch. Im Fluss befindet sich eine Insel. Dort sind wir hingeschwommen, weil der Bootsfahrer gerade nicht da war. Zwei Stunden spaeter bekamen wir eine koestliche Mahlzeit auf der Insel serviert. Flusskrebse und ein mir unbekanntes fritiertes Gemuese usw. Das Essen wurde ebenfalls schwimmend )in einem Eimer, auf die Insel transportiert. Ein sehr schoenes Erlebnis. Auf dem Rueckweg, mit dem Motorrad durch die Berge kamen wir in ein tropisches Gewitter und wurden klatschnass.
Soviel zu Baracoa. Nun bin ich aus unerfindlichen Gruenden wieder in Trinidad!!

 

Abschied von Kuba

07.12.2003

Also, schlechte Nachrichten! Seit zwei Wochen bin ich leider krank, habe eine Grippe mit einem fuerchterlichen Husten! Meine positive Reiseenergie hat mich zur Zeit verlassen und ich waere lieber zu Hause. Es faellt mir sehr schwer, Lateinamerika zu verlassen und mich auf etwas ganz Neues am “Ende der Welt” einzulassen. Da ich mich nicht als Tourist fuehle, kommt mir alles hier etwas merkwuerdig vor. In Kuba war es leider sehr schwierig mit dem Internet. Hoffentlich kann ich bald mal Fotos schicken!! Und einen Nachtrag ueber Kuba.
Los Angeles war sehr kalt und ungemuetlich, mein Flug war gecancelled, ein anderer ging dann vier Stunden spaeter. Im Flugzeug sitzend mussten wir dann nochmal zwei Stunden warten! Der Service war auch ziemlich schlecht und ich musste die ganze Zeit husten!!! So geht es einem auf Reisen denn doch nicht immer nur gut!
Liebe Gruesse vom Nikolaus soll ich ausrichten! Ich lebe hier uebrigens schon in der Zukunft, naemlich einen ganzen Tag spaeter oder weiter. Die Datumsgrenze verlaueft maemlich durch Fiji!!

 

Nachtrag zu Kuba

10.12.2003

Also, in Kuba habe ich mich lang in der schoenen kleinen Stadt Trinidad aufgehalten, und eine Menge vom Alltag in einer touristischen Stadt mitbekommen, viele Kubaner kennengelernt und wenig getanzt. Dafuer bin ich unter die Kunsthandwerker gegangen und habe eine bestimmte Technik des Korb- und Hutflechtens erlernt, sehr zur Bewunderung einiger Kubaner. Ich war froh, endlich mal wieder etwas Produktives tun zu koennen!!
Ein paar Tage habe ich in einer Kleinststadt, eher eine Siedlung von Zuckerrohrarbeitern verbracht. Hier gab es nun wirklich keine touristen, ausser einem Deutschen, der sein gerade neugeborenes Kind besuchte!!
Also , das kubanische Alltagsleben ist wirklich nicht einfach. Hier mal eine Beschreibung eines typisch kubanischen Haeuschens: Man betritt das haus ueber eine Veranda und befindet sich im Wohnzimmer, welches mindestens 2 massive holzschaukelstuehle mit Korbgeflecht enthaelt. Es gibt ein kleines Regal mit Porzellanfiguren, kuenstlichen Blumenstraeussen, einem uralten kofferradio und manchmal einem 70er jahre Fernseher. An den Waenden fehlt die Farbe schon lange und der Putz blaettert ab, aber das haus ist immer blitzsauber. Oft liegen die Kubaner auf dem kuehlen Fliesenboden, um sich auszuruhen. An der Wand haengt immer ein textiler Wandbehang mit Tiermotiven, meistens Tiger, Loewend und eine halbnackte Amazone auf dem Pferd, welche mit den Tieren sprechen kann. Beliebt sind auch Motorradposter mit leichtbekleidetetn Frauen. Es gibt einen Holztisch mit vier Stuehlen und eine offene Kueche. Hier dar das verblichene Poster mit Fruechten , Gemuesen oder Meeresfruechten, begleitet von einer Flasche Champus nicht fehlen! In einigen Haeusern ist auch der gute Che als Portraet vorhanden. Ich bewundee, mit wie wenig Geschirr und Kuechengeraet man auskommen kann! Alles ist multifunktional, mit einem riesenmesser wird alles geschnitten, geschaelt und werden Dosen geoeffnet. Jeder haushalt besitzt einen Eigentuemlich anmutenden Dampfdrucktopf, zum Kochen der taeglichen Bohnenration. Jeden Tag gibt es Bhnen und Reis, manchmal Eier, sehr selten Fleisch. Es gibt wenige Teller und Besteck, ein paar Glaeser und Mokkatassen, aus denen es sich auch gut Rum trinken laesst. (Es wird hier unglaublich viel Rum getrunken!!) Auf offenem feuer oder einer Petroleumgespeisten Flamme wird hier in ein bis zwei verbeulten Toepfen gekocht. Die Speisen werden kaum gewuerzt.
Fettes Schweinefleisch ist sehr beliebt, kostet 1,50 Dollar das Kilo, also zu teuer.
Beliebt sind auch Yucca und Suesskartoffel, welche ich sehr gerne esse. Das Essen ist immer lauwarm, da alles nacheinander bereitet werden muss. Einen Backofen gibt es nicht, den koennen sich nur Leute leisten, die an Dollar kommen. Regelmaessig faellt der Strom aus, manchmal fuer Stunden, gerade auch abends, wenn gerade gekocht wird. Kerzen gibt es kaum, eine wiederaufladbare Notfalllampe kostet mehr als ein Monatseinkommen. Ein Ausspruch den man haeufig hoert: “No es facil!” es ist nicht einfach!
Das Bad ist selten gefliest und enthaelt manchmal nur eine toilettenschuessel (ohne Brille) mit Wasserkasten , aber ohne Wasseranschluss, ebenso die Duschvorrichtung: ein Abfluss im Boden. Der Toilettengang muss daher sorgfaeltig geplant werden, vorher Wasser im Eimer von draussen holen, Papier wird auch nicht benutzt. Oft gibt es auch keine Toilettentuer, sondern maximal einen Vorhang, oder das Licht funktioniert nicht, und man muss daher die Tuer sowieso offen lassen! Das kann bei einem Westeuropaer durchaus zu Verdauungsstoerungen fuehren! Soviel dazu! Trotz dieser Widrigkeiten habe ich mich auf dem Land sehr wohl gefuehlt, herzlichst aufgenommen und umsorgt, von Kubanern, die noch nicht vom Dollarfieber befallen sind!
In den alten Hauesern im Kolonialstil sind nachtraglich viele kleine Raueme eingebaut worden. Die Decke ist jeweils nach oben hin offen, ebenso zum Nachbarn. Eine Leuchtstoffroehre erhellt oft das ganze Haus.
Ich hatte uebrigens mindestens eine Lebensmittelvergiftung durch den Verzehr einer Languste, sozusagen illegal (in privaten Gasthaeusern in touristischen Gegenden) und daher guenstig, zubereitet!
Das Wetter hat sich hier geaendert, es ist kuehl und windig, daher habe ich mich fuerctherlich erkaeltet!

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