Fiji

Los Angeles

14.12.2003

Also, ich verspuerte ja schon vorher keine grosse Lust , einen Tag in Los Angeles zu verbringen, und es hat mir tatsaechlich nicht sonderlich gefallen. Riesiges Hotel in Flughafennaehe, eine Stadt, die nur fuer Autofahrer gemacht ist. Ich habe versucht die Strasse gegenueber des hotels zu ueberqueren (einziger Fussgaenger, soweit das Auge reicht) und es beinahe nicht geschafft. Es ist sowieso verboten.
Dann bin ich mit dem Taxi fuer 16 Dollar in die naechstgelegene Shopping-Mall gefahren und habe mich zu den Christmasshoppern gesellt. Einen dicken Pullover gegen die Kaelte, einen Disc-Man fuer die Stimmung und eine neue Taschenlampe gegen die Dunkelheit gekauft. Ausserdem 3 Foto CDs brennen lassen. Leider , das muss man sich einmal vorstellen, gabe es keine Moeglichkeit ans Internet zu gelangen in L.A. Weder im Airport, noch im Hotel, noch sonstwo!!! Trotzdem gibt es hier wohl eine Menge zu sehen, aber nicht fuer mich im Moment!

 

Bula von Fiji

14.12.2003

Bula, das muss man hier staendig sagen, bedeutet guten Tag, Herzlich Willkommen und Prost!
Mir geht es langsam ein wenig besser hier in Fiji. vier Tage habe ich auf einer Backpacker – Insel, All inclusive, verbracht, was gar nicht meine Art ist, aber sehr viel Spass gemacht hat. Es gab ein reichhaltiges Unterhaltungsprogramm, welches einem tatsaechlich die Kultur sehr viel naeher gebracht hat.
Die Bevoelkerung Fijis besteht uebrigens zu fast 50 Prozent aus Indern, die damals von den Englaendern hierher gebracht wurden und Zuckerrohr anbauen sollten. Zuckerrohr und der daraus gewonnene Bounty – Rum stellen nach wie vor einen sehr wichtigen wirtschaftlichen Zweig Fijis dar. Ueberhaupt ist Fiji recht weit und gut entwickelt. Manches erinnert einen hier an amerikanische Kleinstaedte, jedenfalls die Architektur und die Werbung.
die andere Haelfte der Bevoelkerung besteht aus Fijianern. Sie sind relativ schwarz, gross und kraeftig, viele tragen einen Afrolook, wodurch sie noch rundlicher aussehen. Generell sind die Menschen hier sehr freundlich und lachen gerne, dabei gewinnen sie nicht unbedingt an Schoenheit, da verhaeltnismaessig vielen Leuten, insbesondere aber den Maennern die Schneidezaehne fehlen!! (Claudia, es gibt hier viel zu tun fuer dich!!)
Die Inder und die Fijianer verstehen sich nicht sonderlich gut. Inder durefen hier kein Land kaufen. Daher sind sie ausschliesslich Geschaeftsleute.
In Fiji gab es noch vor 60 oder 70 Jahren den Kannibalismus. Allerdings niemals aus kulinarischen Gruenden, sondern um sich vor den Seelen der ” Feinde” zu schuetzen, die aus den toten Koerpern nach einiger Zeit entfleuchen und auf anderer Ebene wieder auftauchen koennten.
Es gibt sehr eindrucksvolle Taenze der Krieger, bemalte oder weiss gepuderte Gesichter, Bastroecke und Bastbeinschmuck. die taenze sind recht wild und werden begleitet von furchterregenden Ausrufen.
Die Fijis trinken traditionell Kava, eine taeglich stattfindende Zeremonie, die ich demnaechst genauer beschreiben werde. Kava wird gewonnen aus der Wurzel einer bestimmten Pfefferpflanze. je aelter die Pflanze ist, desto staerker die Kava ( 8 – 10 Jahre). Das Getraenk sieht aus wie Brackwasser. Es schmeckt nicht gut und nicht schlecht und hinterlaesst ein leicht taubes Gefuehl auf der Zunge. Eine Wirkung verspuert man erst, wenn man dieses Getraenk ueber Monate hinweg regelmaessig konsumiert. Also, ich habe nach 4 Schalen deeshalb rein gar nichts verspuert. Einer Kanadierin ging es nach 18 Schalen zwei Tage lang sehr schlecht!! Aber das ist ja auch ein bisschen viel, oder?
So, nun werde ich mich in ein indisches Restaurant begeben und fuer 4 DM sehr lecker essen!!

 

Kava Zeremonie

15.12.2003

Also, bei einer Kava Zeremonie sitzen alle sittsam auf einer grossen Bastmatte, die Frauen muessen die Beine seitlich lagern, die Maenner im Schneidersitz. In der Mitte befindet sich eine grosse schoene holzschuessel, gefuellt mit Kava. Mit Hilfe von Kokosnussschalen wird Kava entnommen und von einer bestimmten Person unter Ausrufen von Bula und anderen Lauten reihum gereicht. Der Chief des Dorfes haelt vorher eine Rede, die eher klingt wie ein Gebet, Die dorfbevoelkerung bekraeftigt das Gesagte mit sehr befremdlichen Lauten. Man bringt ein Geschenk mit, meistens Kavapulver. dieses wird begutachtet und in der Rede gewuerdigt. Bevor man trinkt , muss man einmal in die hohle Hand klatschen und Bula rufen. Waehrend man trinkt klatschen alle anderen dreimal langsam in die Hand und rufen wieder Bula. Nun ja, so geht es dann immer weiter. Als Besucher mussten wir auch einen Chief bestimmen und einen Sprecher. Die ganze Dorfbevoelkerung nimmt irgendwie an der Zeremonie teil, die Kinder haengen draussen an den Fenstern. Dann werden, wenn es sich um Gaeste handelt,manchmal traditionelle Taenze vorgefuehrt oder es wird gesungen.
Das Ganze ist sehr spannend und ungewoehnlich. Als ich an dieser Zeremonie teilnahm, wurden ploetzlich alle Leute mit weissem Puder geschmueckt, Ausdruck der Freude und Tradition, was mir beinahe meine Digitalkamera ruiniert haette!!
Hier werden uebrigens mindestens drei Sprachen gesprochen. Hindi, Fiji und Englisch, ausserdem zahlreiche Dialekte.
Was mir hier gar nicht gefaellt, ist der Linksverkehr, fast waere ich in den falschen Bus eingestiegen, weil ich natuerlich auf der falschen Strassenseite stand! Immer stehe und schaue ich falsch, wenn ich die Strasse ueberqueren will!!
Was mir hier gut gefaellt ist, dass die Maenner Roecke tragen! Etwas ueber knielang, und man weiss nicht, was oder ob sie etwas darunter tragen. Diese Roecke heissen Sulu. Es gibt sie in der Freizeitversion, z.b. rot mit weissen Blumen, oder in der Bueroversion in grau oder blau, mit Buegelfalte und Seitentaschen. am allerschoensten sind die Sulus der Polizisten. Sie sind schneeweiss und haben an der unteren Kante grosse Zacken. Dazu ein roter Guertel und ein dunkelblaues Hemd. Sehr schick!
Die Frauen tragen auch gewickelte Tuecher als Roecke, aber eher unauffaellig.
Noch eine kleine Geschichte: Die Konkurrenz der Restaurants untereinander ist gross, so stuerzen immer gleich zwei Personen verschiedener Lokale auf einen zu, um um die Gunst zu werben. Gestern entschied ich mich fuer ein kleines Restaurant und bemerkte meinen Irrtum nach einem Blick in die Speisekarte (alle Gerichte 15 fijidollar), woraufhin ich wieder aufstand um wegzugehen und der Dame freundlich mitteilte, dass ich eigentlich nur eine Kleinigkeit essen wollte. Wie der Blitz rannte sie ins Restaurant und praesentierte mir eine neue Karte (mit den gleichen Gerichten) mit Preisen von jeweils 5 Fijidollar!! Sehr interessant, fand ich das.
Nun ja, im Moment bin ich sehr unentschlossen, was meine weitere Reiseplanung angeht, weil es mir hier nicht so richtig gut gefaellt. Hoffe es geht allen Daheimgebliebenen gut und das Wetter ist nicht zu schlecht! Hier ist es heiss, Regenzeit, aber ich habe erst einen Tag lang Regen erlebt.

 

Abschied von Fiji

02.01.2004

Ersteinmal moechte ich allen ein wunderschoenes Neues jahr 2004 wuenschen. Nach 3 Wochen habe ich mich hier doch eingelebt auf Fiji und hatte auch ein paar sehr schoene Erlebnisse hier. 14 Tage lang habe ich hier die Yasawa Inseln bereist, die keinen Internetanschluss haben, zum Teil gibt es dort naemlich noch nicht einmal Strom!! Heute Nacht geht es weiter nach Neuseeland, von dort versuche ich dann endlich ein paar Fotos zu schicken und noch mehr ueber Fiji zu berichten. Leider habe ich immer noch meinen Husten! Aber sonst geht es mir gut!!

 

Nachtrag zu Fiji

14.01.2004

Das Reisen auf den Fiji Inseln ist relativ gut organisiert, da es hier doch recht touristisch ist. Die meisten Touris werden postwendend auf die Yasawa-Inseln geschickt. Eine Inselkette, mit vielen Backpacker-Resorts und einigen wenigen Doerfern mit Einheimischen. Mittendrin befindet sich dann noch Turtle Island, wo man fuer 1000 Dollar die Nacht verbringen kann, mit Blick auf die selbe Bucht, wie von den Backpacker Resorts aus. Diese unterscheiden sich auch noch in Qualitaet und Guete voneinander. Sehr einfache Unterkuenfte haben keine Stromversorgung und auch kein Telefon. Das Essen ist auch nicht immer berauschend, aber man muss immer Vollpension buchen, da es dort ja auch nichts zu kaufen gibt, denn weit und breit ist nur Natur und Wasser. Die Inseln sind allerdings sehr schoen, mit Bilderbuchstraenden, weissen Straenden, gruen bewachsenen Bergen, viel Natur und keinerlei andere Ablenkung. Man kann hier schnorcheln, schwimmen, tauchen und kleinere Bootsfahrten unternehmen.
Schlafen kann man entweder in traditionellen “Bures”, das sind kleine strohgedeckte Huetten mit niedrigen Tueren, oder man schlaeft mit bis zu 25 anderen Personen in einem sogenannten Dormitory, was sehr nervig sein kann.
Auf fast jeder Insel wird man mit Gesang und Instrumentalmusik sehr freundlich empfangen. Oft sind die Betten, die Waschbecken und sogar die Toilettenkaesten liebevoll mit duftenden Blueten von hibiskus oder Frangipani dekoriert. Fuer die Gaeste wird auch ein Besuch im Dorf organisiert, denn dort kann man nicht einfach ohne eine Einladung zu haben hineinspazieren. Die Dorfbewohner koennen allerdings auch nicht einfach fuer laengere Zeit wegfahren, ohne sich beim Chief abzumelden. Hier ist alles sehr genau geregelt, aber das habe ich wohl schon einmal geschrieben. Fortsetzung folgt.

 

It’s Fiji Time , relax

18.01.2004

bin ja nun schon seit 2 Wochen in Neuseeland, aber eine kleine Geschichte habe ich doch noch zu den Fijis.
Nachdem ich die Weihnachtstage in einem recht komfortablen Resort verbracht hatte, meint ich nun doch auch noch einmal ein Resort der einfachen Art kennenlernen zu muessen. Gesagt, getan, mit der grossen Faehre, genannt Yasawa Flyer in ein kleines familienbetriebenes Resort. Die kleine Familie wohnte daselbst in dem grossen Mehrbettraum und bot mir deshalb eine kleine suesse Huette, mit Blumen geschmueckt, an. Leider war ich der einzige Gast in diesem Resort ohne Strom und Komfort. Am naechsten Tag wechselte ich daher ueber zu Verwandten, welche das einzige Resort betreiben, welches direkt an einem Dorf liegt und man somit auch einmnal das Dorfleben beobachten kann. Der Chief war schon vor 5 jahren gestorben, daher durfte ich ohne Einladung durch das Dorf wandern und wurde ueberall mit einem froehlichen “Bula” begruesst. In meiner neuen Unterkunft wurde waehrenddessen allerdings ausgiebig der Sonntag zelebriert. In meinem Schlafraum lagen denn auch einige Angestellte schlafend auf dem Boden. Die Matratzen standen senkrecht im Bett, man war wohl ueber der Arbeit des Bettenmachens kurz mal eingeschlafen. Draussen schnarchte die fuellige Koechin auf einer Bastmatte, auch die uebrigen Dorfbewohner ruhten sich im Schatten aus. nach mehr als zwei Stunden konnte ich dann mein Zimmer beziehen! Kalte Getraenke waren kurzfristig ausgegangen, und die Koechin musste sich 3 Dollar von mir leihen, um Milch fuer das Porridge der Gaeste (4 an der Zahl)zu besorgen. Ein englischer Gast musste am naechsten Tag zum Festland , um seinen Flug nach L.A. zu bekommen. Ich wollte nun auch nicht laenger hier verweilen und somit warteten wir auf den Bootsmann, der uns mit seinem kleinen Boot zur Faehre bringen soll. Ploetzlioch taucht die Faehre in weiter Ferne an ihrem halteplatz auf. Nun wird die schlaefrige Koechin Mary denn doch aktiv. Laut schreiend rennt sie am Strand hin und her und versucht den Bootsmann zu aktivieren, der sich einfach nicht blicken laesst. Marys kraeftiger Sohn holt schnell einen riesigen Spiegel herbei und versucht der Faehre Blinkzeichen zu geben. mary schreit weiter. Ein Jugendlicher uebernimmt das Chauffieren des kleinen Bootes, wir steigen ein, auch Andi, die Betreiberin des Resorts. Wir tuckern los, die Fahere verschwindet in der Ferne ! Nach kurzer Zeit hebt Andi stirnrunzelnd den Benzinkanister an : er ist fast leer. Nun scheucht sie uns ganz nach vorne auf das Boot, ebenso ihren Neffen, der nun beginnt ein grosses rotes Tuch zu schwenken, um die Dorfbewohner einer nahegelegenen Insel bzw. vorbeifahrende bootsfahrer auf uns aufmerksam zu machen. Er springt herum , schreit, winkt, und wird nicht beachtet. Wir tuckern weiter und erreichen schliesslich das Resort Wailailai mit eigenem “Schnellboot”. Andi haelt erst einmal einen Plausch mit Bekannten und Verwandten im nahegelegenen Dorf. John aus England, der seinen Flug bekommen muss, schwitzt betraechtlich.. Endlich wechseln wir auf das Schnellboot. Ich sehe keine einzige Schwimmweste. Der “Kaeptn” fordert 100 Dollar von mir, weil ich nicht auf das Festland, sondern auf eine andere Insel gebracht werden moechte, das Benzin sei ja so teuer. Nun ja, lange Rede kurzer Sinn, ich bin sauer, bezahle ihm 80 Dollar und steigen auf Bounty – Island aus, welches so ist , wie man es sich vorstellt.
It’s Fiji-Time, relax…..

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