Myanmar

Myanmar , das Land der Pagoden

18.03.2004

Nach drei Wochen Myanmar, ohne Internet und ohne Kontakte nach Hause melde ich mich zurueck. Dieses Land und vor allem seine Bewohner haben mir ausgesprochen gut gefallen! Das Reisen innerhalb des Landes ist aeusserst beschwerlich, 10 bis 18 Stunden ist man meistens unterwegs und legt vielleicht 20 km in der Stunde zurueck.
Die schoenste Tour war allerdings mit dem Zug, obwohl meine mitreisenden Europaer da ganz anderer Meinung waren. Fruehmoergens machten wir uns zum Bahnhof auf, mit der Pferdekutsche, ganz romantisch. Hier erhielten wir nur noch Tickets fuer die ordinary class, Also, sitzen auf Holzbaenken, aber 100 km wird man das ja wohl aushalten! Mit 2 1\2 Stunden Verspaetung setzte sich der Zug dann auch in Bewegung und ruckelte, quietschte und schlich von dannen. Im Abteil einheimische Familien, unterwegs zum Markt, jedenfalls fuhren auch viele Bananen und Reissaecke mit. die Maenner kauten auf ihren Betelnuessen herum und spuckten dann die blutrote fluessigkeit aus dem Fenster, manchmal ging es auch daneben! Es wurde viel gelacuht, gegessen und geschlafen, was allerdings nicht einfach war, denn der zug schwankte und ruckte erheblich. Nach 60 km und zahlreichen Stops stieg die Spannung auf ihren Hoehepunkt! Es galt, das Goektuk Viadukt zu ueberqueren, ein architektonisches Meisterwerk, 300 m hoch, 100 Jahre alt und lange nciht mehr repariert oder gewartet worden!! vorher ein kleiner Stop zum Aussteigen und bewundern der Bruecke und um sich noch einmal zu staerken! Dann fangen die Leute an, sich zu bekruezigen und der zug setzt sich in Zeitlupe in Bewegung, weiterhin schwankend. Auf der Bruecke herrscht abslolute Fotografierverbot! drei junge Polizisten beobachten uns genau und springen aufgeregt auf uns zu, als wir uns gerade ueber das Verbot hinwegsetzen wollen! Der eine Polizist, 19 Jahre alt, ist mir offensichtlich sehr zugetan. Mehr als eine Stunde lang versucht er mir mit Engelsgeduld die burmesische Sprache mit ihren verschiedenen Tonhoehen naeherzubringen! Mit wenig Erfolg, aber “mingala Bah” = hallo, und “mi na me pa le” = wie heisst du. kann ich mir dann auch langfristig merken.
Ueberall , wo wir haltmachen stuermen Frauen und Kindern mit Essbarem oder Trinkwasser herbei. Die Kinder suchen immer Kontakt zu den Touristen und sind ueber jedes Wort oder jede Geste hocherfreut und danken es einem mit ihrem strahlenden Laecheln!
Unsere ueberaus spannende Zugreise ueber eine Distanz von 100 km dauert dann insgesamt doch 7 Stunden, da spuert man die Holzbaenke doch ganz schoen!! Auf diese Art und Weise lernt man Land und Leute am allerbesten kennen!!

 

Anekdote aus Myanmar

25.03.2004

Nun nochmal zurueck in dieses interessante Land. Nachdem ich nun wieder hier in Thailand bin, sehe ich hier alles sehr viel kritischer! Sehr touristisch und sehr viel Nep!
In Myanmar war ich unterwegs mit drei anderen sehr sympatischen Reisenden. Nachdem wir unsere Zugfahrt ohne gesundheitliche Schaeden hinter uns gebracht hatten, mussten wir ja nun auch irgendwann die gleiche Strecke wieder zurueckfahren. Man entschied sich fuer den Bus, angeblich ein klimatisierter Expressbus. Abfahrt 5.30 am. Schlaftrunken erwarteten wir unseren Bus. Die Plaetze waren nummeriert und wurden uns zugewiesen.
Um diese Uhrzeit war es hier im Gebirge noch recht frisch. Die Aircondition bestand darin, dass sich mein Fenster in Hoehe meiner Nieren befindlich, leider nicht schliessen liess!
Komisch kam mir auch vor, dass ich trotz meiner Koerpergroesse weit davon entfernt war, mit den Fuessen den Boden zu beruehren. Das gefiel mir gar nicht auf einer so langen Fahrt! Doch schon nach 10 Minuten hielt der “Expressbus” wieder an und es wurden Koerbe mit Bananen eingeladen. 10 Minuten spaeter das gleiche usw. Jetzt wurden saecke mit Holzscheiten eingeladen, und siehe da, ploetzlich eine Hand an meinem Unterschenkel! Der “Adjudant” versuchte meinen kleinen Rucksack, auf den ich in meiner Verzweiflung meine Fuesse gestellt hatte, wegzuschieben, um mir einen Sack Holz “unterzuschieben”. Mein Protest fand keinerlei Beachtung, der arme Mann schuftete sowieso schon hart genug. Innerhalb der naechsten dreiviertel Stunde veraenderte sich die Situation im bus dramatisch. Immer mehr Saecke wurden eingeladen. Schon laengst konnten alle ihre Fuesse bequem auf irgendwelchen Frachtguetern abstellen. Leute sassen und lagen im Mittelgang auf Reissaecken oder zwischen Bananen und Auberginen. Und ab ging es durchs Gebirge. Hinter mir hoerte ich ein verdachtiges Wuergen, auch im Mittelgang konnte jemand sein Fruehstueck nicht bei sich behalten. Um die Geruchsbelaestigung geringer zu halten, wurden einige Saecke einfach mal umgedreht, dann sieht man auch das ganze Elend nicht mehr! Nun ja, ich habe ja schon die ein oder andere Busfahrt mitgemacht, aber diese war glaube ich der Gipfel! 160 km in nur 8 1|2 Stunden, bei vollem “Familienanschluss!”

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