Indien

Kerala

09.05.2004

Seit fast einer Woche bin ich nun schon in Indien und es gefaellt mir ausgesprochen gut. Offenbar unterscheidet sich Kerala ein wenig von dem uebrigen Indien. So gibt es heir z.B. kaum Analphabeten, aber leider viele Arbeitslose. Kerala war in der Vergangenheit fast immer sozialistisch. Kerala ist das Land der Kokosnuesse, und das kann ich nur bestaetigen. Es ist hier ausserordentlich gruen und voller gesunder Kokospalmen. In vielen Laendern sind sie naemlich von einer schweren Krankheit befallen, so dass die Baumwipfel kahl sind. Bekannt ist Kerala auch fuer seine Backwaters. Das heisst es gibt hier unzaehlige kleiner Kanaele und groesserer Fluesse, die miteinander verbunden sind. Auf ehemaligen Reistransportbooten aus Bambus, ueberdacht ebenfalls mit einer Kuppel aus Bambusgeflecht, kann man hier touren auf dem Wasser unternehmen. Entscheidet man sich fuer nichtmotorisierte Boote, ist das aeusserst entspannend und friedlich. Die Boote werden gestakt und man kommt an kleinen Doerfern vorbei, Kinder rennen ans Ufer und winken, oder man sieht Seilereien, die mit Kokosfasern arbeiten. Auf dieser wirklich schoenen Tour habe ich auch eine Wasserschlange und drei Eisvoegel gesehen. Der Verkehr in Indien ist uebrigens harmlos im Vergleich zu Vietnam. Die Inder sind ausgesprochen freundlich und meistens sehr zurueckhaltend.
Cochin liegt auf einer vorgelagerten Insel und ist ein altes portugisesiches Fort. Dieser Ort ist wirklich schoen anzusehen. Vom Ufer aus werden Fische mit riesigen chinesichen Netzen gefangen, das sieht sehr interessant aus. Hier kann man auch gleich seinen frischen Fisch, Shrimps, Tintenfisch kaufen und 10 m weiter in einem kleinen Restaurant zubereiten lassen. Sehr lecker!!
Im Restaurant kann man auch “Special Tea” bestellen. Dann bekommt man einen dicken Kaffeebecher und eine grosse Kanne. In der Kanne ist dann allerdings Bier!!! In ganz Kerala herrscht naemlich Alkoholverbot, aber Tee gibt es!!
Nun bin ich in Varkala, einem Ort mit Klippen und schoenem Strand, aber das Wetter ist nicht zo gut. Vormonsun. Allerdings kostet das Zimmer mit Blick durch Palmen auf das wilde Meer weniger als ein Viertel des sonst ueblichen Preises!! auch nicht schlecht.
Gestern und heute habe ich jeweils eine Ayurvedabehandlung erhalten. Super! Zuerst eine einstuendige Massage , synchron von zwei Frauen ausgefuehrt, mit sehr viel Oel. Dann liessen sie mir 45 Minuten lang eine Mischung aus warmen Oelen und Buttermilch in einem Strahl auf die Stirn laufen. Ein Behaelter wird immer hin und herbewegt. Das ist gut gegen Stress (den ich ja gar nicht habe) , aber macht auch sonst den Kopf und die Gedanken frei. Ich bin jedenfalls sehr beeindruckt! Das Ganze wird von einem Arzt ueberwacht.
Ansonsten ist Indien ein Land der Farben. Es ist unglaublich welche kraeftigen Farben die Sarees der Inderinnen haben. Es steht ihnen natuerlich auch ausgesprochen gut. Die Maenner tragen hier bodenlangeTuecher statt Hosen, die sie sich sehr achtlos um die Huefte wickeln. Dann greifen sie zu den Zipfeln am Boden und nehmen sie hoch, spielen etwas damit und klappen den ganzen Rock nach oben um, so dass es nun ein Minirock wird. Die Zipfel werden serh locker vorne eingesteckt. Nach 5 Minuten faellt alles wieder auseinander und man kann wieder mit seinem Rock spielen. So hat man immer etwas zu tun.
Allen Muettern, ganz besonders natuerlich meiner eigenen, wuensche ich hiermit einen schoenen Muttertag!!

 

Ooty, Hillstation

13.05.2004

Vorweg muss ich mich mal fuer meine vielen Tippfehler entschuldigen, aber die Tastaturen in den Internetcafes sind haeufig in einem ziemlich ueblen Zustand. Manchmal sind nicht mal mehr Buchstaben auf den Tasten, oder die klebrigen Tasten bleiben immer stecken.
Seit gestern bin ich in Ooty, 2500 m hoch, ein Erholungsort , den sich damals die Englaender hier eingerichtet haben. Es ist hier naemlich sehr kuehl, so kuehl, dass ich mir einen Fleecepullover kaufen musste, nachdem ich schon 2 davon nach hause gesckickt habe, da ich sie fuer ueberfluessig hielt. Gestern Nacht wuenschte ich mir sogar eine Waermflasche!
Landschaftlich ist es hier sehr schoen. Man faehrt, eigentlich mit einem Miniaturzug, durch eine wunderschoene Gegend, sehr viele Affen und einige Wasserfaelle am Strassenrand, viele sattgruene Teeplantagen.
Hier in Ooty wohne ich zur Zeit im Gaestehaus bzw. Cottage des ehemaligen Sommersitzes des Maharadschas! Die z.Z. teuerste Unterkunft im Ort, seit sie die Maharadscharesidenz seit vielen Jahren renovieren, um ein Luxus Hotel daraus zu machen. Ein 200 km langer Tunnel verbindet den Sommersitz mit dem Hauptpalast in Mysor. Ich frage mich , wie man diese Distanz ueberbruecken konnte! Da ist man ja wochenlang unterwegs! Heute abend gibt es ein Kaminfeuer!
Gestern fragten wir uns in einem der seltenen “Wine Shops” nach Bier. Der Inder schaute mich an und wackelte auf seltsame Weise mit dem Kopf, so dass ich schon dachte, etwas unsittliches gefragt zu haben. Aber dieses Kopfgewackele hier bedeutet so etwas wie ja, obwohl es mich immer wieder verwirrt und eher wie ” nein, ich weiss nicht recht” aussieht.
Viele Stunden habe ich hier auch schon im Zug und im Bus gesessen, und ich aergere mich immer mehr ueber die Schauergeschichten anderer Reisender oder in den Reisefuehrern, wie gefaehrlich hier alles sein soll. Ebenso das Essen! Ich fuehle mich hier sicher und esse das Essen, was auf der Strasse angeboten wird, solange es gut aussieht und riecht. Toi, Toi Toi habe ich auch nie Probleme. Meine derzeitige Reisebegleiterin hat hier zweimal in einem exklusiven Hotel gegessen und danach Durchfall gehabt!

 

Hilfe, Regen, Regen, Regen

16.05.2004

Zuerst einmal ganz liebe Gruesse an meine Schueler der Pestalozzischule Brake und danke fuer eure Gruesse. Leider habe ich Nicole keine Karte geschrieben,das lag daran, dass meine Flugzeug abflog und ich keine Zeit mehr hatte! Sorry!
Hier in Ooty, in 2200 m Hoehe wurde ploetzlich das Wetter so schlecht und so kalt, dass ich ganz schnell wieder abreisen musste. Das Wasser stand bis zu den Knien hoch auf der Strasse. Buergersteige gibt es nicht und die Rikschas und Autos brausen an einem vorbei,so dass man im Nu klatschnass ist. Ausserdem war es so kalt, dass ich mir eine Waermflasche gewuenscht habe. Einmal konnten wir zum Glueck vor dem Kaminfuer sitzen. Auf meiner Weiterfahrt ging es den Berg hinunter, 36 heftige Serpentinen, Haarnadelkurven, dass einem wirklich schlecht werden musste. Die Fahrt ging dann durch einen Nationalpark und wir kaonnten vom Bus aus viele Affen und eine wild lebende Elefantenfamilie sehen. Leider durften wir in dem Park nicht uebernachten, weil angeblich ein Bandit dort sein Unwesen treibt und Touristen entfuehrt, was ich aber nicht so recht glauben kann.
Inzwischen bin ich in Mysore, wo ein riesiger Maharadschapalast steht.Hier wiederum wird vor einer “Magic Woman” gewarnt, welche die Touristen mit Hilfe von Suessigkeiten betaeubt, um sie dann auszurauben. Leider habe ich sie noch nicht getroffen.
Die Maerkte sind hier sehr schoen, alles voller Bananen und Fruechte, es gibt auch ganze Marktstrassen, in denen Blueten verkauft werden, besonders Jasminblueten, die kunstvoll miteinander verbunden werden. Die Frauen tragen lange Bluetenketten im Haar, ausserdem sehr viel Goldschmuck und wunderschoene Saris in kraeftigen Farben. Hab ich glaub ich schon mal geschrieben. Heute habe ich einem 10 jaehrigen Jungen eine Armbanduhr gekauft, nachdem er mich mit seinen Sprachkenntnissen (Moin, moin, Hummel Hummel, Mors ,Mors, usw.) und seinen Faehigkeiten als Guide auf dem Markt echt beeindruckt hat. Er machte einen sehr cleveren Eindruck. die Schule besucht er allerdings nicht, offenbar hat der Lehrer ihn hinausgeworfen.
Indien ist doch nicht unbedingt ein Land fuer Reiseanfaenger. Die Leute sind unglaublich arm, alles ist sehr dreckig, es ist laut und hektisch. Heute morgen lag ein Mann einfach so auf der Strasse, mitten auf einem Kreisverkehr. Es hat lange gedauert, bis sich jemand gekuemmert hat. Gestern lag ein totes Pferd am Strassenrand. Wir haben auch schon ziemlich viele Unfaelle gesehen, Busse, die offenbar frontal zusammengestossen sind. Ueberall, auch in den ganz grossen Staedten, laufen hier auf der Strasse Rinder und Ziegen herum. Die Rinder pluendern die Muelleimer. Ansonsten hat man immer etwas zu gucken. Langsam freue ich mich auch schon wieder auf Zuhause, obwohl ich auch gut noch weiterreisen koennte.

 

Luxus in Bangalore

20.05.2004

Zweieinhalb Tage war ich in der High Tech Grossstadt Bangalore in Suedindien. Hier konnte ich wirklich den krassen Gegensatz zwischen arm und reich hautnah erleben. In Bangalore kann man wirklih alles kaufen, was das Herz begehrt, Kaufhaeuser mit Luxusartikeln, die neuesten PCs und Handys usw. trotzdem laufen hier mitten in der Stadt die Kuehe und Rinder herum. Sie gehoeren niemandem, ernaehren sich hauptsaechlich von Muell und koennen von jedermann gemolken werden! Das ist schon ziemlich krass zwischen dem ganzen Verkehr und vielen sehr modernen Gebaeuden hier. Gewohnt habe ich bei einem deutschen Paar, die hier fuer ein Jahr leben und arbeiten. Sie wohnen in einer geschlossenen Wohnanlage, in einem supermodernen Luxusreihenhaus mit vielleicht 200 qm Wohnflaeche. Taeglich steht ihnen ein Chauffeur und Firmenwagen zur Verfuegung, den ich somit auch mitnutzen konnte. Wenn man monatelang in klapprigen Bussen herumgefahren ist, kommt einem das sehr dekadent vor! Ich konnte es aber auch ein bisschen geniessen. Gestern Abend wollten meine Begleiterin Ulrike und ich dann weiterreisen und hatten alles perfekt organisiert, das Nachtzugticket 2 Tage vorher reserviert, frueh genug losgefahren usw. Am Bahnhof stellte Ulrike dann fest, dass sie das Ticket in der Wohnung hatte liegengelassen!! Alle Schalter waren geschlossen, ohne Reservierung geht hier sowieso gar nichts im Zug. Vor dem Bahnhof campierten ca. hundert Menschen, auf den Bahnsteigen sah es auch nicht besser aus. Wir entschlossen uns, einfach den Zug zu besteigen und abzuwarten. Zum Glueck kannten wir noch unsere Betten- und Wagennummern. Die Zuege sind hier allerdings endlos lang, es gibt fuenf verschiedene Klassen, von Holzbank bis zum Aircondition Sleeper. Alle Leute rennen wild durcheinander, um ihren Wagen zu finden, man kann kaum durchkommen! Als dann der Schaffner kam und wir ihm unsere Story erzaehlten, mussten wir zum Glueck nicht aussteigen, aber er wollte uns den dreifachen Preis abnehmen. Damit hatte ich schon fast gerechnet und nur wenig Geld in meiner Geldboerse gelassen. Nach einigen Diskussionen bezahlten wir dann den reglulaeren Preis und verschwanden in unseren Betten , ganz oben zwischen den Ventilatoren. Am naechsten Morgen mussten wir dann feststellen, dass wir ueber unser Ziel hinausgeschossen waren, Hospiet lag schon hinter uns!!! Somit fanden wir uns dann in einem kleinen ziemlich sauberen Dorf wieder, Mit kleinen Verkaufsstaenden, vielen Kindern, Pferdekarren und wenig Verkehr. Als ich ein paar Kinder fotografierte und ihnen das Bild auf dem Digitalbildschirm zeigte, kam das halbe Dorf angerannt und riss mir fast die Kamera aus der Hand. Eine Frau forderte mich massiv auf, ihren Mann zu fotografieren, danach sollte ich einen anderen Mann mit einem zahmen Papagei aufnehmen und dann auch noch zwei wunderschoene weisse Ochsen, deren Hoerner hier oft kunstvoll bemalt sind. Jedes Bild wurde von allen gebuehrend bewundert und ich hatte Muehe, mich zum Busbahnhof durchzukaempfen.
Nun bin ich in Hampi einem sagenhaften kleinen Ort zwischen riesigen Felsen. Hier gibt es unzaehlige alter Tempel und Tempelanlagen, ausserdem sehr viele Affen. Unser Gaestehaus liegt mitten in diesen Anlagen und unser Blick geht ueber den Fluss und diese sagenhaften alten Tempelruinen. Leider haben hier einige Hippies dafuer gesagt, dass dieser einstmals heilige Ort nicht mehr so friedlich ist, so dass man sich hier zuerst bei der Polizei registrieren lassen muss und eine Sicherheitsanweisung erhaelt.
Ich habe schon ein paar nette “Freunde” gefunden, kleine Jungen, die hier Postkarten und anderes verkaufen. Sie haben einen ungeheuren Charme und versuchen sich in allen Fremdsprachen.
Den Ort betritt man durch ein grosses Tor, so dass hier keine Autos oder Busse fahren, sehr friedlich. Morgen werden wir eine Hinduhochzeit anschauen.

 

Hinduhochzeit in Hampi

05.06.2004

Eine Hinduhochzeit sollte man einmal miterlebt haben, besonders schoen hier in Hampi, in den uralten Tempeln, im Hintergrund steht der Tempelelefant, ueber einem turnen die Affen. In Indien sind 95 % aller Hochzeiten von den Eltern arrangiert und das Paar kennt sich so gut wie gr nicht. Braut und Braeutigam muessen endlose Zeremonien ueer sich ergehen lassen. Sie sitzen auf dem Boden, geschmueckt mit ueppigen Blumenkraenzen, dieser Braeutigam traegt roten Nagellack. Beide schauen etwas ungluecklich. Raeucherstaebchen brennen und hunderte von Gaesten sitzen am Boden und rufen sich etwas zu. Musiker begleiten das ganze lautstark mit Pauken, Trompeten und Klarinetten, die Stimmung ist gut, nur das Brautpaar verharrt regungslos. Dann werfen alle Reis auf das Paar und jubeln. Wir werden sofort auch zum Essen eingeladen, was hier nichts besonderes ist, denn das ganze Dorf kann kommen. Oft sind es Hunderte von Gaesten!!
Gegessen wird in Etappen auf dem Boden sitzend, Maenner und Frauen getrennt. Zuerst werden Bananenblaetter in der Groesse eines Sets verteilt. Dann geht jemand herum und schaufelt aus einem Eimer Reis auf das Blatt. Ein anderer bringt verschiedene Currys, Chutneys und scharfe Kokossosse. Dann wird mit der rechten Hand gegessen. Am Ende wird das Blatt einfach zusammengeklappt, mit einem Rest aus dem Wasserglas waescht man sich draussen die Hand ab und fertig. Alle gehen nach Hause.
Kein Abwasch, kein Tanz. Das Brautpaar muss die ganze Zeit auf einer Buehne posieren. Stundenlang werden Fotos und Videos aufgenommen. Auch mit uns “Weissen”. Ueberhaupt sind wir hier ausgesprochen beliebt. Ich bin hier mindestens 30 mal fotografiert worden. Ein beliebtes Motiv ist, dass man der Person gerade die Hand reicht! Auch ist es hier einfach, die Inder zu fotografieren, denn sie lieben das sehr, besonders, wenn man ihnen das Foto auf dem Digitalbildschirm zeigen kann.

 

Affentempel und Sadhus

05.06.2004

05Morgens um 5 Uhr werden wir von einem ohrenbetaeubenden Krach ueber uns geweckt. Es sind die langbeinigen scheuen Languraffen, die ueber das Dach toben, dann wieder zurueck auf eine Palme springen usw. Sie koennen bis zu 15m weit springen. Hier sind sie auf der Suche nach essbarem aus dem Muelleimer. Wir mieten uns Fahrraeder und machen uns auf den Weg zum Affentempel, Hanuman, der auf einem Berg ein paar Kilometer entfernt liegt. Leider finden wir den Weg nicht und ich laufe durch ein Bananenfeld, bis vor mir ploetzlich eine armdicke Schlange im hohen Gras verschwindet! eine Languraffenfamilie beobachtet uns argwoehnisch und ueberquert unseren Weg. Wir fahren durch sehr urspruenglice Doerfer, legen eine Teepause ein und essen ein Dosa, so eine Art knuspriger Crepe mit scharfer Kokosnusssosse. Dann liegt der Tempelberg vor uns. Es ist erst 8.30, aber schon sengend heiss!! 600 Stufen muessen wir erklimmen, auf halber Strecke erscheinen die frechen Makaken. Sie zeigen uns die Zaehne, einer setzt zum Sprung an und entreisst Ulrike ihre Tasche, die sie ueber den Kopf haelt, und eilt davon.
Ein kleiner Hund begleitet uns und verscheucht alle weiteren Affen, zum Glueck!! Oben werden wir mit einer wunderbaren Aussicht ueber das Tal, den Fluss und die vielen Tempelruinen belohnt. Hier oben leben einige Sadhus, das sind Maenner ab 40 J. , die ein bestimmtes Horoskop haben muessen. Sie meditieren oder machen Yoga. Ab und zu gehen sie durch die Doerfer und bekommen ueberall etwas zu essen. Ihnen ist es als einzigen erlaubt, Marihuana zur Bewusstseinserweiterung zu rauchen. Sehr freundlich bitten sie uns herein, bringen eine Art Griessbrei und Wasser und laden uns zum Rauchen ein!! Neben mir sitzt ein Affe im Tuerrahmen, den ich mit Nuessen aus der Hand fuettere. Die Sadhus haben ganz lange Rastahaare, Gesichtsbemalungen und tragen Longyis, das sind Tuecher. Stolz zeigen sie uns ein englisches Teeservice, bestehend aus drei Teilen und ein gemaltes Bild, welches Besucher ihnen geschenkt haben. Ich habe die Ehre, aus einer dieser Tassen Tee trinken zu duerfen! Hier oben herrscht eine sehr gute und friedliche Atmosphäre und man bekommt Lust, fuer ein paar Tage zu kommen, um mit den Sadhus zu meditieren!

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  389. การเล่นพนันฟุตบอลนั้นก็คือการลงทุนประเภทหนึ่ง และในทุก ๆ การลงทุนนั้นมีความเสี่ยงเกี่ยวข้องด้วยเสมอ

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