Laos

maukemana–Weitere Reisen–

Pakse

30.07.2005

so, nun sind wir endlich in Laos und atmen richtig auf! Ruhe, relaxter Verkehr, keine Anmache, kein Abgezocke. Leider klemmt die Taste fuer die Grossschreibung meistens. Unsere Bustour verlief wieder Erwarten doch recht angenehm. Leider wurde ich selbst von Durchfall und Magenbeschwerden geschuettelt, schon bevor wir los fuhren, aber da musste ich durch. Die Busfahrten hier sind immer ein Erlebnis. Macht der Bus eine Pause, stuermen Frauen und Kinder mit kleinen “Leckereien” den Bus. Nicht immer weiss man, was man da Gegrilltes in der Hand haelt! Eine Frau mit einer Plastiktuete betrat den Bus, in der Plastiktuete eine lebende 2 m Schlange, vielleicht moechte die ja jemand kaufen auf der Busfahrt! Stunden spaeter ein lautes Schlagen am Bus, der Reifen loest sich ab! Kurzerhand wird dann mal das Ueberstehende mit dem Messer abgeschnitten und weiter gehts! Wenige Stunden spaeter muessen alle aussteigen, keiner weiss warum. Der Mittelgang des Busses wird erst einmal mit Zuckersaecken bis zu einer Hoehe von mindestens einem Meter vollgelegt. Die Passagiere, die sowieso schon im Mittelgang auf Kindergartenstuehlen hocken, reiten jetzt auf den Saecken, ihre Fuesse beim Sitznachbarn in der Klebereistuete.
Zwei alte winzige Maennlein hocken im hinteren Teil des Busses. Ihre Hemden sind zerrissen. Mit einem strahlenden Laecheln wollen sie uns ein Messer, eher ein kleiner Dolch, verkaufen, fuer 10000 kip, das ist ungefaehr 1 Dollar.
Nun sind wir in Pakse, im Sueden von Laos und hoffen, dass morgen ein Boot in Richtung der 4000 Inseln im Mekong gehen wird. Niemand kann dir hier eine genaue Auskunft geben, man muss sehr frueh morgens zum Anleger gehen und hoffen, dass genuegend Passagiere zusamenkommen.
Gerade lesen wir, dass auf der Insel Don Det langsam Elektrizitaet ankommt, lassen wir uns ueberraschen, als ich vor einem Jahr dort war, gab es noch nichts dergleichen!

 

4000 Inseln im Mekong

10.08.2005

Mit der Bootstour hat es zum Glueck geklappt! Auf einem Frachtboot ohne Sitze konnten wir dann eine Tour von 6-einhalb Stunden, auf dem Boden sitzend mitmachen. Der Mekong sieht nun, zur Regenzeit, ganz anders aus, als ich ihn in Erinnerung hatte. Nun schauen nicht mehr so viele winzige Inselchen heraus und auch die Wasserbueffel trauen sich nicht mehr in den Fluss, mit der gewaltigen Stroemung. Zwischendurch legen wir immer mal wieder an und ein paar Einheimische steigen dazu, einaml auch zwei quiekende Schweinchen, die, nachdem sie einen anstaendigen Haufen gemacht hatten, sich erst einmal ueber das Gruenzeug aus einem Einkaufskorb hermachten. Irgendwo wurden wir dann einfach aus dem Boot ausgesetzt, mit der Aussage, das sei die Insel DON DET. Stimmte natuerlich nicht, aber das hatte ich mir schon gedacht. Gerade war das Boot abgefahren, als Christa feststellte, dass ihre beruehmte schwarze Tasche mit allem Geld und Tickets und Papieren auf dem Boot geblieben war!!! Grosse Aufregung, hinter dem Boot her pfeifen, fluchen….. Zum Glueck hatte Rita die Tasche in letzter Minute doch noch mitgenommen, sonst…?
unsere Nachfragen ergaben, dass wir uns auf der groessten der Inseln, naemlich Don Khong befanden. Nach dem Genuss einer obligatorischen Nudelsuppe und eines Bia Lao konnten wir dann mit einem Jumbo in den Hauptort fahren, in das wirklich angenehme Gaestehaus von Mister Phon. Von dort aus erkundeten wir die Insel mit Fahrrad und Moped, was nicht immer einfach war, da es hier zur Zeit heftige Schauer gibt, die innerhalb von Sekunden anrauschen!! Zum Glueck kann man dann mal kurz abbiegen in das “Wohnzimmer” einer Familie. Man wohnt hier in Teakhauesern auf Stelzen, oder in Bambushuetten. Unter den Haeusern spielt sich tagsueber das Leben ab. Wir vier, wie die Gartenzwerge im roten, gruenen, gelben und blauen Regencape kamen immer gut an! Auch in den kleinen “Nudelbuden”, wo sich das Dorfleben abspielt hinterliessen wir einen bleibenden Eindruck. Rita hatte naemlich ihre Hui-Maschine dabei. Und da konnten wir schon mal den “Dorftrinker” zu einem kleinen Tanz von einem Bein auf das andere verfuehren. Irgendwie hatte er die Anweisung nicht ganz richtig verstanden. Beinahe haette er sich mit einem jungen Moench einen kampf um die Huimaschine geliefert, der hatte es naemlich im Nu heraus, wie es geht! Vor lauter Begeisterung radelte er dann mit unserer Maschine davon, aber horst hinterher, sodass wir weiterhin spass mit dem Ding haben koennen!
Hier auf Don Khong hat man den Eindruck, es sei immer Sonntag. Hier scheinen Mensch und Natur noch wirklich im Einklang miteinander zu leben. Die Menschen arbeiten hier wirklich hart auf den Reisfeldern, pfluegen mit Wasserbueffel und Pflug, stehen bis fast zu den Knien im Morast. Aber sie sind immer froehlich, gehen freundlich mit ihren Tieren und Kindern um und rufen uns immer freundlich “Sabaidee” zu. Eine krasser Unterschied zu Vietnam! Hier versucht wirklich keiner uns abzuzocken, uns aufzuhalten oder zu etwas zu ueberreden!

 

Insel Don Det

10.08.2005

Nach drei erholsamen Tagen auf Don Khong lassen wir uns mit einem Langboot nach Don Det bzw Don Khong uebersetzen. wir befinden uns hier in Suedlaos, unmittelbar vor der Grenze zu Kambodscha. Hier ist der Mekong teilweise bis zu 14 km breit und voller Inseln und Inselchen, alle mit tropischen Pflanzen bewachsen, Bananen, Papaya, Kokos und Kapok, teilweise bewohnt, fernab jeglicher Zivilisation. die meisten Inseln haben noch keinen Strom- oder Telefonanschluss. Viele Kinder haben noch nie einen Europaer gesehen.
Don Khong liegt absolut suedlich, und zwar unmittelbar vor den Mekong Wasserfaellen an der Grenze, die es unmoeglich machen, den Mekong von Norden nach Sueden fuer Schiffe befashrbar zu machen. Hier gibt es auch die seltenen Irrawaddy Flussdelfine, die wir auch von Ferne sehen konnten.
Auf Don Khong gibt es nur ungefaehr 5 Gaestehaueserund ebensoviele Restaurants. Einige haben einen Generator und am Abend fuer drei Stunden Strom. Wir entschieden uns fuer sehr schoene schwimmende Huetten mit Veranda in Flussniveauhoehe.
Von hier aus sind wir wieder mit dem Fahhrrad losgefahren ueber die ehemalige Eisenbahnbruecke auf die Insel Don Det. Dies ist ein absluter Traveller Treff. Viele Bambushuetten ohne Strom mit Gemeinschaftsbad fuer 1 Euro die Nacht. Ein holperiger, zur Zeit sehr glitschiger Weg fuehrt um die Insel. Mit dem Fahrrad sehr abenteuerlich, da mehrere Bruecken zusammengebrochen waren. Fast waere uns Horst verlorengegangen, der annahm, mit viel schwung ueber eine versunkene Bruecke fahren zu koennen. Das waere schief gegangen. Mit vereinten Kraeften gelang es uns nach einer halben stunde diesen Wasserarm zu ueberqueren. Sechs weitere folgten!!
Hier konnten wir die ruhe , die Natur und die Abgeschiedenheit geniessen. Kein Fernseher, kein Geknatter, nur Geschnatter!

 

Per Bus nach Pakse und Vientiane

10.08.2005

schwer fiel der Abschied und ab ging es mit dem Chickenbus, Ein offener Kleinlaster mit Sitzbaenken. Irgendwie wollte mein Fuss nicht stillhalten, bis ich merkte, dass er auf einem Sack mit lauter Froeschen ruhte!!So ging es viele Kilometer und man bekommt eine Menge vom Dorfleben mit. Kurzer halt auf einem Markt:
Hier wurden erst mal die Froesche abegegeben und dafuer ein kleiner Sack mit krabbelnden “Flying Shrimps” gekauft, man kann sie auch dicke Heuschrecken nennen. Nachdem sie geroestet waren forderte mich ein freundlicher Laote auf, doch mal eine zu probieren! Wie soll man da ablehnen, man will ja nicht unhoeflich sein. Abgerissen die Fluegel und hinein in den Mund!
Die Hauptstadt hat uns nicht weiter interessiert, und weiter gings mit dem Bus Richtung Vang Vieng. Durch die lange Busfahrerei lagen auch schon mal die Nerven blank, denn dies ist nun schon der dritte Tag im Bus. Aber im VIP Bus!! wohlgemerkt. Erst geht es zuegig voran, bis direkt unter meinem Fenster etwas zischt. Der Reifen ist platt!! Alle raus, sengende Hitze, kein Schatten, dann Schauer! Die Buscrew mueht sich redlich ab, den Reifen zu wechseln. Offenbar besteht hier noch Uebungsbedarf. Irgendwann mischt sich ein weitgereister Mann aus Singapur ein und zeigt den Jungs wie es geht. Nach ueber einer Stunde ist es dann gelungen, einen voellig glatten neuen reifen aufzuziehen. Die Mannschaft ist am Ende und merkt nach kurzer Zeit, dass der Bus mit diesem Reifen die lange Fahrt durch die Berge nicht ueberstehen wird: Alles Aussteigen!! Reisen kubanisch. Wir stehen und warten, Gespräche entwickeln sich……Irgendwann erreichen auch wir Vang Vieng, denn in Asien funktioniert irgendwie alles recht gut. Die Strecke ist uebrigens beruehmt beruechtigt. Hier wurden des oefteren Busse ueberfallen und beschossen, von Banditen oder Rebellen, das will hier keiner so genau sagen. Im letzten Jahr stuerzte der mir nachfolgende Bus bei einem Unwetter den Abhang hinunter!

 

Vang Vieng

10.08.2005

Bei diesem Ort handelt es sich wieder einmal um einen typischen Travellerort. Man glaubt nicht, wie viele junge Leute unterwegs sind, und dies hier ist ihr Ort!! Ein Restaurant und Internetcafe reiht sich an das naechste. In den Restaurants gibt es ausgiebige Relax und Liegeflaechen, wo man allabendlich ohrenbetaeubend laut dVDs anschauen kann, dabei internationales Essen geniessen und vielleicht noch mal was rauchen dazu. Genuss pur!
Eigentlich ist Viang Vieng ein kleiner Ort inmitten einer traumhaft schoenen Landschaft! Ein Fluss schlaengelt sich durch ein Tal, umgeben von hohen steil aufragenden, gruenbewachsenen Kalksteinfelsen. Hier gibt es unzaehlige hoehlen, staendig werden neue entdeckt. In manchen Hoehlen kann man schwimmen, manche muss man erklettern. Jedenfalls ist die Landschaft hier einmalig und traumhaft, zur Zeit von tiefhaengenden Wolken eingehuellt. Waehrend der Trockenzeit gibt es hier lange Bambusbruecken ueber den Fluss, nun sind sie abgebaut und ein reger Faehrverkehr mit Langbooten wird betrieben.
Der alte Markt, an den ich so besonders gute Erinnerungen habe, ist teilweise abgerissen, das Gelaende liegt trostlos vor einem. Der Markt ist ein paar Kilometer nach ausserhalb in das naechst Dorf verlegt worden. Der Ort Vang Vieng selbst soll umgesiedelt werden um den Markt herum! So bleibt dann hier ein Touristenort zurueck, der uns abends an einen Gang ueber den Kramermarkt erinnert. Gehen wir in die Geisterbahn oder essen wir ne Currywurst?
Kaum faehrt man jedoch mit dem Rad ein paar hundert Meter aus der Tourimeile weg, findet das normale Dorfleben ungestoert weiter, als gaebe es gar keine Touristen. Die Rinder laufen traege ueber den ehemaligen Airstrip der Franzosen bzw. Amerikaner, Ziegenherden bummeln ueber die einzige Hauptstrasse Richtung Norden, auf einem klapprigen Friseurstuhl werden haare geschnitten, Schuhe werden repariert und Naehmaschinen rattern. Biegt man von der Hauptstrasse ab und fahert ein paar Kilometer ins Inland, fuehlt man sich um 100 Jahre zurueckversetzt. Kleine Kinder weinen bei unserem Anblick, Handwebstuehle stehen unter jedem Haus und werden auch betrieben. Gerne duerfen wir zuschauen. Ein aelterer Mann ist am Korbflechten, Sein Nachbar laechelt uns an, nur ein Zahn ist in seinem Mund zu entdecken , als er sich ueber das digitale Foto, das wir von ihm gemacht haben freut!
Ein Marktbesuch ist auch immer wieder spannend!! Hier gibt es so viele verschiedene Gruentoene und das Rot der Chilies,dass es ein Augenschmaus ist. Je weiter wir gehen, desto mehr schauen wir auch ein wenig unglaeubig auf die angebotenen Dinge. Froesche werden hier mit Nadel und Faden sorgfaeltig durch den Oberschenkel aufgefaedelt, natuerlich lebend. Dort kommt ein kleines Fahrzeug mit frischen Fledermaeusen angefahren und die Leute draengen sich darum. Eine frau versucht die daumendicken Maden in einer Schuessel voller Kokosfasern vor uns zu verbergen.Wir sollen sie nicht fotografieren! Gerne durefen wir aber die am Gestell geroesteten Ratten der Nachbarin aufnehmen, oder etwas den Tukan, der im vollen Federkleid angeboten wird!
Nichtsdestotrotz lasse ich mir eine frische Waffel fuer 10 Cent schmecken, wie zuhause!!

 

Land unter

12.08.2005

Hier ist Land unter angesagt. Wir warten auf die Arche, die uns rettet. Es schuettet hier seit ca. 15 Stunden heftig und ohne Unterbrechung!! Gestern haben wir uns hier diverse Hoehlen angesehen, eine mit einer blauen Lagune, richtig paradiesisch!! Danach sind wir von ein paar Jungs, die das Faehrboot betreiben, zu einigen Lao Lao eingeladen worden. Der restliche verlief ein wenig im Dunst….
Nun sind wir auf dem Weg nach Vientiane, morgen fliegen wir nach Hanoi und wollen noch ein paar geruhsame Tage in der Halong Bucht verleben, die allerdings wohl sehr touristisch ist. Hoffentlich regnet es dort nicht so!

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